New Year, New Dress!

Vogue 8813

First completed garment of 2014 – this is Marcy Tilton for Vogue, 8813. The fabric is silk noile, dyed in my tea urn with about six months’ worth of saved tea bags. I blogged about my failed attempt at dyeing the fabric and scalding my foot, but apparently I failed to mention the second attempt, which came out looking lovely! Well, I think so, anyway.

Paul doesn’t much like the black marks, which are iron stains from rusty nails. I’m slightly concerned that people will make “hilarious” jokes about tea stains, but I really love this fabric. I plan to over-dye it every six months or so with the tea bags that I’m still saving. I figure that each successive dye bath will add new stains and patches and colours, which will add lots of depth and texture.

Some of you have been following the progress of the smocking over on Facebook… ta-da!

Vogue 8813

I’m slightly peeved about the wonky bit in the centre, caused by a dart that I added after the smocking rather than before. Note to self: read the instructions all the way through, especially if you’re making changes to the pattern.

Often when I’ve finished sewing something I’m so sick of the sight of it that I can’t even think about making another one. I enjoyed working on this dress so much that I’m already thinking about different colour combinations, and wondering how many I can get out of the fabrics I’ve already got in my stash. There’s a version suggested with contrasting colour panels, one with buttons on the enormous pockets… and I want to wear them all!

Vogue 8813

Notes on the pattern: BE CAREFUL. It’s not difficult by any means, but there are a few places where you need to be really accurate otherwise you’ll come unstuck. You also need to read the instructions properly *cough*, as the pocket construction in particular is a bit origami-like. The back, by way of contrast is completely plain and flat.

Fitting-wise, the only measurement you need to worry about is the full bust. If the dress is too tight across the front, it’ll be too tight under the arms and through the cap sleeves. I still went down a size from my usual Vogue Large to a Medium, and there’s plenty of room to breathe.

Vogue 8499

This, as you may be able to tell, is not another dress. It is another Marcy Tilton though, Vogue 8499. These trousers have a flat front and elasticated back, large pockets, and darts at the knees. They’re very wide at the hips, tapered at the ankle, and sit very high at the waist. Perfect!

My only complaint about this pattern is that there are no actual garment measurements given anywhere! If I’d sewn my usual Vogue size 18 or 20, these would have been phenomenally huge, even for a very baggy style like this. After reading a lot of reviews online, I took a gamble and made a size 14. This has turned out spot on, thank goodness. Any smaller and I wouldn’t have been able to pull them over my hips, but thankfully there’s still plenty of ease.

Once again, parts of the pattern require absolute accuracy. I ended up with a tiny hole in the waistband where I sewed past one of the small dots by a couple of stitches, though it was easily fixed.

This picture doesn’t really do them justice, although I think you can get an idea of the shape. I think they’ll also work well in lightweight corduroy, or maybe a nice drapey suit wool. They’re so comfortable that, like the dress, I want to make more already!

Repeating Patterns

Back in April 2009 I made a pair of trousers using Vogue pattern 8367. (Now out of print.)

In October 2009 I went looking for a jacket pattern, and came across one which included a pair of trousers that I liked. The pattern was Vogue 8604, which looked remarkably similar to Vogue 8367.

Today I went searching for a pattern for high-waisted trousers, which is something I do fairly often, and came across the one above – Vogue 8717.

Is it just me, or are all these trousers actually exactly the same pattern?

Perhaps I should take a hint – stop looking for new trouser patterns and just make another pair from the one I’ve already got!

Clown Trousers

Clown trousers

A friend of mine collects clowns. He found this one in a charity shop, sadly trouserless. A fat quarter of sparkly gold jersey later, and the clown is much better dressed!

Butterick 5250

Butterick 5250

I started making these trousers back in March, when I started my new job. Then I decided I didn’t like them, and they went on The Pile. Last weekend I was going to a party, and I wanted to wear my Jeffery~West shoes, so I thought it was about time I finished off the trousers to go with them.

The trousers are Butterick 5250, view D, in a herringbone linen blend.

Now that I’ve made the sway-back adjustment, I really like them – although I did make them a little bit too small around the waist which is why the waistband’s gone wrinkly. I know it might look daft to be wearing trousers that sit so high on the waist, and there’s probably a “rule” somewhere that says short-waisted people shouldn’t wear high-waisted trousers. I say never mind the “rules”, they’re really comfortable, and I plan to make another pair. And a matching little bolero-type jacket to go with these.

I think the only thing I’d change about them is the pockets – they’re just not quite big enough. Also, whilst the trousers look nice enough with a fitted t-shirt, I think that what they really need is a shirt and tie to go with them. Maybe a bow tie. (Bow ties are cool.)

That’s more like it.

Wrap trousers and swing top

I spent yesterday afternoon developing the prototypes I made on Saturday – in fabrics that I’ll actually wear.

The top is a pink tartan cotton and viscose blend shirting. I added sleeves, although they didn’t turn out quite how I meant them to. I was intending to make floaty butterfly sleeves, but these have come out distinctly tight. They’re not too tight to wear though, so I can change them next time. If they get too annoying, I’ll just chop them off. The fabric is 60″ wide, rather than the 45″ I used for the prototype, so the hem is much wider and the sides are much longer.

The trousers are made from my stash of Bishopston organic cotton. I made a more angled crotch seam than on the previous pair, which makes them more fitted around the waist. Because of this I didn’t make a drawstring. I used bias binding to enclose the top edge, extending it 20″ on each side to make the ties. I’m trying not to worry that the wrapped edges are a bit wobbly. One of the things about handwoven fabric is that the grain isn’t anything like as straight as something that’s been machine made. I can’t do anything about that, so I’m just going to have to live with slightly wiggly trousers.

Now i just need to hope that the weather stays nice enough for me to wear them.

Summer Outfit

New summer outfit (prototype)

This week’s been a pretty hot one, as far as weather goes in the UK. I’m sure most people are thrilled to bits (in fact I can hear them all outside, laughing and enjoying their barbecues in their gardens), but unfortunately for me, I’m really not very good at hot. I get sunstroke very easily, and just generally don’t cope very well with the heat.

All my usual work clothes are making me much too hot, and all my summer clothes aren’t really smart enough to wear for work. Everything in the shops appears to be made of polyester, which is not a nice fabric to wear in the heat, so I decided it was about time I stopped moaning and tried to figure out something I could make quickly and wear all summer.

I started with an idea for a loose kimono-sleeved jacket, although the prototype didn’t come out very well. More work needed on that one. So I moved on to a very loose, draped top. This will definitely work better in a softer fabric, like a linen or a lawn, but I think it works nicely with a belt. A bit martial-arts-looking all in white, but I think that effect would be reduced in a different fabric or a different colour.

New summer outfit (prototype)

The trousers are a simple wraparound style with a drawstring waist. They’re so cool and comfortable, and they were extremely easy to make. These would definitely be lovely in a nice soft, crinkly linen or a handwoven organic cotton.

I think if I can get the fabrics right, this would make an ideal “smart-casual” outfit for work.

Yoga pants and psychic powers.

Last week I was looking at these lovely yoga pants from Gossypium, and lamenting that I didn’t have £35 to spend on a pair of trousers just at the moment.

Today I was finally able to reach into my pattern stash at the back of the Shed (which still has a great deal of kitchen piled up in front of it, as we gradually move everything back indoors) and pulled out Vogue 8396. I must have been hanging on to this pattern for a long while, as it’s now out of print, but version C has that fold-over waist that I was looking for.

I unfolded all the pieces and pulled out the ones I’d need to make the trousers in view C. Then I tried to figure out which size to cut. Unfortunately I didn’t bring my psychic powers out with me today, which means that I still don’t know.

The trouble with dressmaking is that the measurements given on the pattern envelope are almost never the same as the finished measurements of the garment that you’re making. That’s because each pattern has a certain amount of “ease” built in, to make sure that you can still breathe and eat and sit down and move around once your garment’s finished. So the pattern pieces usually tell you the actual measurements of the finished garment.

Except that this one doesn’t.

Given that they’re close-fitting trousers, made from stretchy fabric, it would be reasonable to assume that there isn’t any ease – that the measurements given on the envelope are the ones you’ll end up with. But then again, stretch garments (especially leggings) tend to have negative ease, so that they stretch when you put them on. That’s how they stay up.

Normally I’d cut out the pattern, pin it together and carefully try it on – but for a stretch garment that doesn’t really work. I can’t afford to waste either the time or the fabric to make a pair of trousers that don’t actually fit, so I guess I need to iron the pattern pieces, measure them carefully, subtract the seam allowances, and try to work it out that way.

Or, given that the Gossypium ones are now reduced to half price, I might just give in and buy a pair!

Altering some new trousers

H! by Henry Holland

I like Henry Holland, and he had some trousers in Debenhams, and they were pink tartan, so obviously it was compulsory for me to buy them.

(Yes, I know they look ridiculous. I have every intention of wearing them anyway.)

But!
Because these are tapered trousers, the legs were much too tight in my usual size. So I tried the next size up, which were much more roomy in the legs but ridiculously enormous around the waist.

So I looked at the trousers and came up with a solution.

H! by Henry Holland
First I carefully removed the fake pocket welts from the back.

H! by Henry Holland
Then I wrapped the resulting strip of fabric around a length of elastic, and sewed them together many times.

H! by Henry Holland
I tucked the elasticated strip underneath the belt loops, and sewed it into place. Now the trousers can’t do that annoying gappy business at the back!

I also slipstitched down the inside pleats on the front, so that it didn’t look as though I was carrying inexplicable balloons in my pockets.

Ta-daa!

New trousers.

Corduroy and Velvet

Corduroy and velvet

This weekend I’ve been sewing the waistcoat to go with the Dorset buttons I made last Sunday. The pattern is McCalls 8285, and the fabric is a sage green cotton velvet. It’s almost finished – I just need to make the buttonholes, and sew a little silver buckle onto one of the straps at the back.

The trousers I actually made a few weeks ago. I didn’t photograph them because as soon as they were finished I put them on, and I’ve been wearing them (or washing them) ever since! They’re another pair of Vogue 1034, this time in black needlecord with a bit of a stretch to it. The pockets and waistband are lined with the remnants of the Sea of Holes fabric – just so I could feel amused by having pockets full of holes. (Yes yes, groan, I know.)

The trouble with wearing both cord and velvet is that they both act a bit like velcro when it comes to fluff. The cords accidentally went through the washing machine with a stray tissue which left them all white and fuzzy, and now they’re covered in green dandruff from cutting the velvet.

This outfit is two-thirds of what I’ll be wearing when I go out playing the recorder with the clog dancers. I now have just less than three weeks to either make or buy a shirt with long sleeves and no collar. I’ve got miles of white polycotton that’s suitable for shirting, and two patterns that would be fine. One is Folkwear 117 that I’ve made before, and the other is McCalls 5976. It just remains to be seen whether I’ll have time to make one of them, or whether I’ll need to dash down to the shops. Thankfully pintucked shirts seem to be in fashion at the moment, so hopefully I won’t have too much trouble finding one that’s suitable.

Three weeks until my first recorder-playing performance in about eighteen years. Gosh.

California Pants

California Pants

This is what’s been keeping me busy for the past few days – Laughing Moon #106, California Pants.

These pieces are just the linings and facings for the pockets, waistband, gussets and fly.

As you can probably tell, I’ve still got a long way to go with these! My plan to try and make two pairs before starting my new job is going to have to be abandoned, I think.