Prototype Shoes: Making Progress!

Felt shoes: First Prototype

Well, it feels as though it’s taken absolutely FOREVER, but I have just completed my first pair of prototype shoes made on my new lasts! After much waiting and worrying and more waiting, the lasts finally arrived at the beginning of August, and it’s taken me about three weeks to get the first pair made. Now that I know what I’m doing (and what changes I need to make), the next nine pairs should come about a lot more quickly!

The lasts have arrived!

I have twelve pairs of lasts in total, in European sizes from 34 to 45. They’re solid plastic (with a hinge for getting the lasts out of the shoes without stretching the uppers), and they’re really, really heavy! Thank goodness I didn’t choose the option with the metal sole plates!

Felt shoes: First Prototype

Most of the work I’ve been doing so far has been distinctly un-photogenic. It starts with mummifying the lasts in two layers of masking tape.

Felt shoes: First Prototype

Then comes the design, which you can now draw directly onto the last.

Felt shoes: First Prototype

Repeat for every size you want to make…

Felt shoes: First Prototype

And then you can peel off the tape and create the actual patterns.

Felt shoes: First Prototype

This takes a bit of technical wizardry (okay, it’s just technical drawing), so I turned to some shoemaking videos produced by Cordwainers at the London College of Fashion. (They helped a bit, but I think my shoemaking books and years of research were of more use at this point.)

Felt shoes: First Prototype

As uninviting as it looks, this photo represents my favourite part of the new shoes. I was able to find a good strong water-based glue, which means no more solvents and no more breathing equipment! No more shoemaking migraines! Hooray! I do still need to make sure I’ve got good ventilation, and I’ll probably wear a face mask anyway, but this stuff is so much nicer than the rubber cement I was using before. Here you can see the little wedge pieces (just 5mm deep) waiting to be glued to the cork midsoles.

Felt shoes: First Prototype

While I was waiting for the glue to dry, I cut and stitched the first pair of uppers from the new patterns. I can see some pretty bridal versions in the future, although most of my prototype pairs are going to be made in fantastically bright colours!

Felt shoes: First Prototype

This first pair is for me to test, and I decided to re-use the little felt oak leaves from the pair of green felt shoes that didn’t fit. (I managed to re-use the midsoles from those too, so I’m glad they weren’t too much of a waste.)

Felt shoes: First Prototype

They’re stitched into place by hand, and embellished with Swarovski crystals. It’s impossible to photograph how sparkly they are, but they glitter like little raindrops on the leaves. So pretty! Felt shoes: First Prototype

More waiting for glue… this time to attach the uppers to the midsoles. The only down side of this glue is that it takes thirty minutes to be ready to stick, as opposed to the ten minutes required by the horrible old stinky stuff. This is a very small price to pay, but it’s a bit of a trial for a very impatient person. (Who, me?)

Felt shoes: First Prototype

Once the glue had dried, I took them for their first walk! I definitely need to swap the ribbons for wider ones, as these have a tendency to slip around my ankles, but otherwise they seem great so far. I’ll wear them as much as possible over the next few weeks while I continue to make the rest of the prototypes. I should end up with ten pairs to show you altogether, and then I can pop them into the Etsy shop for you!

New shoes in progress…

Felt shoes

Did I mention that I was making some new shoes? I suspect that might be one of those things that I only mentioned on Facebook and Instagram, while I was having a bit of a break from the blog. I started working on them back in April, with some lovely wool felt from Cloud Craft.

Embroidered felt leaves

I’d originally wanted to make my own felt, but my hands and shoulders haven’t been well enough to allow that, so I decided to bite the bullet and buy some. I love the combination of felt and embroidery (I seem to be doing that a lot these days!), and I figured that I could use the techniques from my original fabric shoes to make something a bit more robust.

Felt shoes

This turned out to be very nearly the case. These are just lacking their rubber outdoor soles, and they look really good on the lasts – if I do say so myself!

Felt shoes

Unfortunately something went a bit peculiar in the sizing department. When I took them off the lasts and put them on my feet, they were enormous! By this time I’d already taken orders for ten prototype pairs, so I could thoroughly test the techniques before letting them loose in my Etsy shop. Obviously I couldn’t make ten pairs of shoes that didn’t fit their recipients, so I decided to bite the bullet and borrow enough money to allow me to order some lasts.

Ballet Flats lasts from shoe-last-shop.com, ordered in sized 32-45!

I found the perfect style at Shoe Last Shop, a company which specialises in selling small quantities of lasts to shoemakers without factories, who aren’t mass-producing thousands of pairs. I’ve ordered a full set of these, in European sizes 32 to 45. I suspect that the smallest and largest sizes will get a lot of use (which is why I wanted them), as most commercial shoe ranges only include sizes 36 to 41, sometimes up to a 43 if you’re lucky.

I was expecting to have ten finished pairs of shoes to show you by now, as the lasts were scheduled to arrive just over a month ago! Sadly there have been some production delays at the factory, and I’m going to have to keep people waiting a while longer, which I really don’t like. It’s bad customer service on my part, even though there’s nothing I could have done to fix it. (Well, except for not having taken the shoe orders, even for prototypes, until I had the lasts in my hands.)

Thankfully, I received an email yesterday to say that the production backlog had been caught up, and my lasts should be shipping in the next couple of days. I have a huge pile of felt read and waiting, so as soon as they turn up I can make new upper patterns to fit them, and get a move on with the shoes!

Hats, Shoes and Dolls.

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I mentioned, back in my New Year post, that my One Word for 2015 was going to be “focus”.

I also mentioned that the three things I wanted to focus on were HATS, SHOES and DOLLS.

So, as you do, I promptly took a three-month sabbatical from making hats.

Although this might seem counter-intuitive, it actually gave me time to think about how the hats had been received at the wedding fair in January (nowhere near as well as they were at the Christmas craft market), and start to gather some extremely useful feedback. As a result, I’m having a bit of a re-think about the styles of hats I want to make.

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This is the first experiment off the blocks (well, actually, off an old biscuit tin!), and I have to say that I’m quite pleased with it so far. It’s a small top hat, about 10cm in diameter, and about the same high. The brim was blocked flat and then hand shaped and wired, and finished with bias binding. The embellishments are some felt “tentacles” I made a while ago, and you can see that I’ve started to add a few sparkly Swarovski crystals, which I love against the matt felt. This particular one won’t be for sale, as it’s part of an outfit that you’ll have seen a sneaky glimpse of if you follow me on Instagram. All will be revealed when it’s complete!

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As far as shoes go, a plan is currently in the works! These are a few cotton pairs that I made back in 2011, but decided not to take any further. This time I’m changing both the materials and the method, and I have a few people signed up to do some wear testing of a batch of prototype wool felt shoes.

They will be shoes, not slippers, as they’ll have a durable rubber sole that can be worn outside. They’ll need the same sort of treatment as any fabric summer shoes, although I think the wool will be fairly robust. If they turn out well, I have other fabrics in mind. Harris Tweed, anyone? Silk, for weddings? We’ll see. Fingers crossed that the prototypes turn out well!

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As for the dolls… well, they’re firmly stuck in my imagination at the moment. They were going to live over at Mr & Mrs Magpie’s Inexplicable Emporium, but I simply haven’t had the time or the energy to do anything other than think about them. Olaf hasn’t even been tweeting very often.

I know exactly what the characters all look like, and I know how I want the dolls to turn out… but the gap between my current skills and the finished dolls seems impassable right now.

For the moment I’m concentrating on the new top hats, plus my favourite shape of close-fitting cloche. I’m ordering the materials for the shoes this week, so I can start to get those into production as soon as the felt arrives. But after that, and my Proper Job, and my Aromatherapy distance learning course, I think the dolls might just have to wait for a little while.

I’m sure they’ll demand to be made when they’re ready.

The Captain Samuel Vimes ‘Boots’ theory of socioeconomic unfairness

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Image © Fairysteps

“The reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money.

Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in Ankh-Morpork on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles.

But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that’d still be keeping his feet dry in ten years’ time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet.

This was the Captain Samuel Vimes ‘Boots’ theory of socioeconomic unfairness.”

Terry Pratchett, Men At Arms

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Image © Conker Shoes

I used to be something of a shoe addict. As a child I had to wear Very Sensible shoes, but the moment I was freed from this tyranny I got myself a job in a shoe shop, and spent all my hard-earned cash (did I tell you about the time a toddler kicked me in the eye?) on buying ALL THE SHOES. This continued into my twenties, when I eventually stopped working in a shoe shop (and being kicked by toddlers, mostly), but carried on buying ALL THE SHOES. By the time I was in my thirties, I lived in a house with a dedicated Shoe Cupboard. I don’t think I ever counted them, but at the height of my shoe obsession I probably had something in the region of fifty pairs. A couple of them were very expensive. Most of them were very cheap, badly made, bought in sales, didn’t really fit properly, and certainly weren’t comfortable. Comfortable shoes were for losers! It was all about having the perfect pair to go with the perfect outfit.

After my first hip operation, I bought a pair of hiking trainers, and a pair of orthotics to go inside them. They were a revelation. I could walk! My back didn’t hurt! But wow, they were ugly. I did get rid of the majority of my ridiculously high-heeled shoes, but all I did was replace one addiction with another. I took to buying second-hand Dr Martens on Ebay, thinking that at least they were flat, and (mostly) comfortable. Soon I had a pair to match every outfit! And then the hip surgery came around again, on the other leg. My physiotherapist told me that Dr Martens, even with orthotics inside them, were the worst possible shoes I could wear. (But surely they were originally designed to be orthopaedic? What the heck?!) They were too stiff, offered insufficient support, and he convinced me to sell the lot. Heartbreaking.

Fairysteps Queenie

Since then, having reached the conclusions that 1) I really like being able to walk, and 2) I don’t really fancy having any more hip surgery until they eventually have to be replaced, I made the decision to buy Only Sensible Shoes. An initial online search turned up mostly horrible ugly orthopaedic-looking things, which was a bit depressing. Thankfully I eventually stumbled upon the wonders that are Fairysteps and Conker Shoes!

Conker Boots

I now have a grand total of fifteen pairs of shoes. A small collection for me, but by my husband’s standards, this is triple the number of shoes a person needs. (He has two pairs of army boots, two pairs of Converse, and a pair of casual Merrells that he never wears.) I’ve been gradually building up my collection until I have enough shoes and boots that will work with with most of my clothes, and the only gap remaining is a pair of summer sandals. I’m saving up, and I’m going to buy a gold and silver pair from Conker, if the weather’s ever warm again.

Once my collection’s complete, I effectively won’t need to buy shoes! Ever again!

Actually, I try not to think about that too much, because it makes me shiver a little bit. But the whole point of Conkers is that they can be completely re-soled once they wear out, and then they’ll be lovely and fresh and new again. They can also fix mistakes! My black and silver brogues were my first pair, and I ordered them one width fitting too tight, and with soles that I don’t find especially comfortable. But, when the time comes to have them repaired, I can have the uppers stretched, and the soles replaced with ones I like – without having to buy a whole new pair of shoes!

Fairysteps Moonshine
(Yes, I wear these to work. People take the mickey every damn time, but I wear them anyway.)

I’m not sure what to do about re-soling the Fairysteps collection – I don’t have a Proper Cobbler in my town any more, and I’m not completely convinced I can trust them to any old glue-a-rubber-heel-on shoe repairer on the high street. That’s a bridge I’m going to need to cross fairly soon, as the ones I wear most often are starting to get a little bit slippery as the treads wear away.

Anyway. What was I waffling on about?

Oh yes, I know.

At the end of the day, all of these shoes are really rather expensive.

Like Captain Vimes, I can’t afford them. The boots at the top were bought for me as a joint Christmas gift by my husband, parents and sister, and I chipped in a bit towards them too. But, I think they’re worth the money.

Each pair of these shoes and boots was made individually, by hand, by a single person. (Or a small team, in Conker’s case.) No factory, no thousands of identical pairs being pumped out only to end up in landfill when fashions change, so the impact on the planet in terms of both production and waste is much, much lower. And because they can be repaired, only the worn-out sole needs to be disposed of rather than the entire shoe, meaning less waste again.

The black & silver brogues were a colour combination that I chose, and Conker put together for me. I have a pair of Fairysteps boots that are turquoise with little brown birds on them, which are absolutely unique. Conker don’t make their derby boots with a brogue toecap – but when I emailed to ask them whether it was possible, they said yes. They also read my blog, spotted that my black & silver shoes were too tight, and recommended a wider fit when I bought the boots – a year later. How’s that for customer service?!

So yes, it can be very hard to reconcile spending a lot of money on a pair of shoes. Especially when you don’t have a great deal of money to spend in the first place. (Which, as someone who works part time, I definitely don’t!) But when you look at how long these boots are going to last, the kind of customer service that comes with them, and the greatly reduced impact on the planet thanks to opting out of mass production, the decision (to me, at least) seems a great deal easier.

Fuzzy Feet

Dilemma of the day:

My feet have pins and needles and a burning sensation, which makes it quite difficult to walk without a walking stick.

My hands also have pins and needles and a burning sensation, which makes it quite difficult to hold a walking stick.

Tricky business.

My list of ridiculous and frustrating symptoms is getting longer and more annoying as the months go on. I do have an appointment with my doctor next week, but I don’t honestly expect anything to come of it. (Although I’m hoping for a referral to a rheumatologist, who can at least arrange for some tests I haven’t had already.)

Hey ho.

At least it’s a bit easier to put up with having very uncomfortable feet when you get to put them inside some lovely comfortable shoes. Fairysteps Holly, in case you were wondering. I wear mine with the ribbons around the ankle rather than across the instep.

Just as well I sold my entire shoe collection in order to buy these, really. I can’t imagine I’d have been able to wear a single pair of my old shoes right now!

Shiny Shoes!

Conker Shoes

Yay, my shiny new Conker shoes have arrived!

They were delivered on Friday, while I was out at work. Paul very kindly went to pick them up from the sorting office for me while I was out at work on Saturday. He was somewhat startled to find that the postman knew me, and was not at all surprised to discover that the parcel contained shoes! He used to drive the delivery van for our area, so he got to know me very well in the days when I was collecting unusual Dr Martens from Ebay. Sometimes he used to wait on the doorstep while I opened my parcels, so he could see my unusual choice of shoes. I think he’d have been impressed by these!

I wore the shoes to work on Sunday, and they’re lovely! Not quite enough room for orthotics and handknit socks both at once, which tells me I should probably have ordered a 6F rather than a 6E. Conker offer amazing customer service and I could have sent them back to be stretched a little bit, but being the impatient sort I couldn’t resist wearing them straight away.

Conker Shoes

The lovely people at Conker are probably going to cry when they see this picture. I don’t think they’d take them back in this state! Yes, I knew it had been raining, and I should have put on a big pair of boots. But, new shoes!
(I know, I know. And yes, I have cleaned them now that the mud’s dry.)


Photo © Sarah Wainwright

I went for a walk with Sarah (Skycarrots), and we sketched and made rubbings and nibbled leaves and took pictures. Sarah took a picture of me, taking a picture of my shoes. She also took some lovely ones of a meadow full of cowslips, glowing as the light faded. We’re planning on making these walks a regular occurrence, so hopefully we’ll have full sketchbooks and photo albums to show you soon. It was lovely to go out with a friend, and find a bit of creative inspiration in our local area.

Selling my Sole(s)…

The Great Spring Cleaning of 2012 has begun.

Actually, it began a few weeks ago when I wore one my my beloved pairs of Jeffery~West shoes and they gave me a blister. Again. At that point I finally had to concede that I’m not a size 40, no matter how thick my socks are, and it was time to let go. I popped all four pairs on Ebay, and with the resulting funds I treated myself to a new pair of boots. Not quite in the same sort of style… but I’ve ordered a pair of Fairysteps‘ finest Moonshine boots. Mine will be in gold (GOLD!!) with round toes and silver stars. I’m trying not to be impatient, but I can’t wait for them to arrive!

Flushed with success, I thought it was about time I cleared out all of my other shoes that I bought because they look amazing, but which turned out to be impractical or ill-fitting. There are a few pairs still on Ebay, ending this afternoon. Depending on how much money I raise from those, I plan to buy one pair of shoes to replace the lot. My criteria are:

  • Hand made, or at least made in England,
  • Actually comfortable,
  • Gorgeous,
  • Smart, and black.

Current contenders are Fairysteps Clara or Quince, Conker star sandals, Green Shoes Willow, or the slightly more heavy-duty Dr Martens for Life.

You may have noticed that I’m also selling my beloved concertina, and my Mulberry handbag. I’m on a mission to no longer keep things that I don’t use, however lovely they may be as objects in their own right. An instrument that’s never played and a handbag that’s never carried are fundamentally useless, so it seemed like their time to be re-homed with someone who’ll appreciate them.

[edit]
Apparently I’m not selling my “Mulberry” handbag – Ebay have taken down the listing because it’s been reported as a fake! I was extremely indignant at first, having bought it from what I thought was a reputable place, but a little online research tells me they’re right. How embarrassing! Because I’d never owned a Mulberry bag before, I didn’t notice the subtle differences in the details that tell you it’s not a real one. All the details which I, in the spirit of full disclosure, have just photographed and put on Ebay! A classic example of caveat emptor, I suppose. *sigh*

Still, now I can’t sell it, I feel a bit less bad about making some alterations that will allow me to actually use it. Like taking off the straps and repositioning them so that they actually fit over my shoulder, for a start. Onwards and upwards…

Stripy Boots

Stripy Boots

Ta-daa!

This pair isn’t wearable outside, mostly because I made an error in the construction (I am clumsy, and accidentally snipped a little hole in the outer fabric), so I sewed felt slipper-soles onto the bottom. Annoyingly, this took longer than it would have done to glue the rubber soles on, but it meant that I could try them on and walk about in them for a bit, at least inside the house.

There are some little adjustments I want to make to the pattern, but this is fundamentally it.

I’m waiting for drawings-of-feet from a couple of willing prototype testers, so I’ll be able to show you some different versions of these as I make them. I’m looking forward to the peacock-coloured silk pair that have been requested!

Prototype Boots: Take Two

Muslin Boots 2

I made another little boot prototype, sort of idly based on the construction of Converse, but developed from my existing shoe pattern. The black stitching lines are the seam allowances, so they’ll be a little more cut-away than they appear.

I need to make the curves more shallow, as they’ve come out a bit right-angled on this little boot, but I think the style might just work.

Fairysteps Birthday Shoes

Fairysteps Queenie

Happy Birthday to me! And what a perfect chilly-but-sunny day for frolicking in the grass wearing my new shoes. Aren’t they gorgeous?

These are Queenie shoes from Fairysteps, in pink dragon leather to match my beloved handbag. I may have put them on before I got out of bed this morning, to the accompaniment of rolled eyes from my husband. I don’t know why he expected anything less, to be honest!

There’s a silly story attached to these shoes.

A few months ago Ren made a pair of Puck shoes in this leather, and I wanted them very much indeed. Sadly I couldn’t afford them at the time, and another lucky person snapped them up. Because all Fairysteps shoes are limited editions (each hide is a finite size, and not all colours can be repeated) you have to buy them when you see them, otherwise they might not reappear! So when another pair magically appeared a few weeks later, happily coinciding with some money in my PayPal account, I gleefully snaffled them straight away.

When Paul came home from work I confessed that I’d bought the shoes, and he looked at me, paused and said “Oh, um…” at which point he was forced to reveal that he’d already bought this pair, and put them aside for my birthday! I quickly sent Ren a rather embarrassed email explaining the situation and, bless her, she was happy to refund me straight away. So a huge thank you to Ren, for sorting out our silliness!

I did feel a bit silly though, and spent a good while wondering whether I could possibly justify owning two almost-identical pairs of shoes… but now I can keep saving up for a pair of Mustardseed or Moonshine boots. I know that a pair of Moonshines are in progress, but it’s probably just as well that they’re not in my size! Maybe next year…

Paul’s been threatening me for weeks that he wasn’t actually going to give me the shoes for my birthday, he was going to put them away until Christmas. I’m so pleased he wasn’t cruel enough to actually do that, because I do love my new shoes! (And my handbag… and my purse… and my choker…)

It’s so lovely to be able to wear or use a well-made item that fills you with joy!
Soppy, perhaps, but true.