Organic Fabrics

Organic Fabrics

While I’ve been thinking about making lingerie and slippers, I thought I’d have another look at what’s out there in terms of organic and fair trade fabrics. I still have a lot of my Bishopston Trading organic cottons, but I wanted to find out whether there was anything new and exciting around.

The samples above are from Organic Cotton, who are based in Wales, and it’s just a small assortment of the enormously expanded range I was pleased to find there!

On the left is cotton poplin, which has been dyed with various plants and herbs to achieve the different colours. (The red is madder and the yellow is pomegranate, for example.) The dyes will fade after wearing and washing, but I think that adds to the charm of this type of fabric.

On the right are “colour grown” cottons – did you know that not all cotton is naturally white? There’s no dye at all in these fabrics – just the natural colour of the cotton as it was grown and harvested. These won’t fade either, as there’s no dye to leach out of the fabric when you wash it.

At the top are herringbone woven cottons, heavier weight, suitable for furnishings and definitely good for slippers!

At the bottom is bamboo “silk” – bamboo fabric which definitely feels very silk-like, and would be lovely for underwear. They also stock bamboo jersey, and a mixed cotton and bamboo woven fabric.

I still have mixed feelings about bamboo though, no matter how lovely the resulting fabric seems to be. Although it originates from a natural material, it has to undergo so many chemical processes during its transformation into fabric (as do rayon, viscose and acetate, for example) that its environmentally-friendly credentials are somewhat questionable. There are some cellulose-based fabrics that can be manufactured using closed-loop production methods (ie the chemicals can be re-used rather than discarded), but it certainly isn’t standard practice yet.

Mind you, every fibre used for fabric production has its ups and downs. Whilst organic cotton may not use harmful pesticides, it still requires a huge amount of water in its production. Man-made fibres such as polyester may be derived from petrochemicals but they’re easy to recycle, and can be manufactured from already-recycled materials. Very little fabric of any kind is now made in the UK, so everything’s subject to being shipped halfway across the world before it even gets here.

I suppose it’s a question of deciding what matters to me right now, and making as informed a decision as possible. Easier said than done, I suspect.

That’s more like it.

Wrap trousers and swing top

I spent yesterday afternoon developing the prototypes I made on Saturday – in fabrics that I’ll actually wear.

The top is a pink tartan cotton and viscose blend shirting. I added sleeves, although they didn’t turn out quite how I meant them to. I was intending to make floaty butterfly sleeves, but these have come out distinctly tight. They’re not too tight to wear though, so I can change them next time. If they get too annoying, I’ll just chop them off. The fabric is 60″ wide, rather than the 45″ I used for the prototype, so the hem is much wider and the sides are much longer.

The trousers are made from my stash of Bishopston organic cotton. I made a more angled crotch seam than on the previous pair, which makes them more fitted around the waist. Because of this I didn’t make a drawstring. I used bias binding to enclose the top edge, extending it 20″ on each side to make the ties. I’m trying not to worry that the wrapped edges are a bit wobbly. One of the things about handwoven fabric is that the grain isn’t anything like as straight as something that’s been machine made. I can’t do anything about that, so I’m just going to have to live with slightly wiggly trousers.

Now i just need to hope that the weather stays nice enough for me to wear them.

Ethical window shopping

I have to confess that I hadn’t looked at the Nomads website recently. I’d always associated Nomads with gothy dresses and plenty of tie-dye, so I sort of assumed they wouldn’t have anything I’d like these days. I can’t remember what drew me to have a look at their website today, but I was very wrong!

This velvet embroidered coat is absolutely beautiful. There’s also a three-quarter length version without the hood, and a matching fitted jacket. I could also happily wear a sari silk kurta, or maybe a cotton kurta for a more casual look.

Then I wandered off to have a look at Bishopston Trading, and this organic cotton pintucked shirt is making me wonder why on earth I thought it was worth the effort of making my own. (I will anyway, because I already have both the pattern and the organic cotton, but it would have been much easier just to buy one!)

People Tree also have a lovely pintucked tunic shirt, which is in the sale. I’m also coveting this striped silk blouse, which has completely ridiculous sleeves. Oh, let’s face it, I’m coveting just about everything from People Tree.

I’m not even going to look at the Gudrun Sjöden website, because I always come away wanting one of everything.

From Bishopston Trading I found out about the FairWear 2010 Fair Trade Fashion Show, which is in Bristol on February 25th. Tickets are only £8 for the daytime and  or £10 for the evening, so I think that’s definitely going to be worth a visit.

All of these lovely things are reminding me that it is possible to dress well and ethically at the same time.

Butterick B5317

Butterick B5317

I started making this dress last weekend, but I’ve been so busy at the Museum this week that I didn’t have time to finish it until today. It’s Butterick B5317, made in black organic cotton from Bishopston Trading.

The pattern is marked as “Fast & Easy”, and for the most part it was, but inserting a zipper into a side seam which also has a pocket seemed a little bit tricky! I’ve never done that before, so perhaps it’ll come out a bit more neatly next time.

I shortened the shoulder straps by about 2″ to make the empire seam sit in the right place, but the neckline was still a little bit too revealing for my personal liking. I’ve added a gathered broderie anglais trim to the inside of the neckline, which I really like the look of. I might need to run a little row of stitches through it though, to keep it from folding itself over.

I chose this pattern for the empire line and the pockets, and it’s definitely one that I’m going to make again in different fabrics. My only disappointment is that because of the width of the pleated skirt panels, it can’t be made using 44″ fabric. That’s a real shame, as I have some quilting cottons that would look lovely in this style! I might have to fiddle around with the pleats, and see whether I can take out a little bit of the fullness. Then it would be absolutely perfect!

The smocked tunic – finished.

Smocked tunic dress

Here you go – the completed blue dress.

I showed you the smocking yesterday, and I’ve just finished the binding and the belt.

This is my usual raglan tunic dress pattern, with the neckline, sleeves and hem all finished with navy blue bias binding. I was hoping to be able to find a navy broderie anglais lace for the hem, but my local fabric shop only had white or black.

The fabric is lovely soft organic cotton from Bishopston Trading.

I’m not certain whether I’ll be making the tunics with smocking to order. Because of the amount of time it takes to do all of the hand sewing, it can make the resulting dress very expensive. In the organic cotton I think it would work out to something like £150, which is three times the price of the same dress without the smocking.

Smocking on organic cotton

Smocking

This is what I’ve been up to all weekend – working panels of smocking on the front, back and sleeves of one of my tunic dresses.

From top to bottom, the stitches are Trellis, Wave, Honeycomb, Chevron and Van Dyke.

I’m really, really pleased with how the smocking’s worked out.
Unfortunately, I over-estimated how much fabric the smocking would take up in the pleating, and I’ve ended up with a dress that’s much too big for me.

I’m going to be wearing the dress to the Albert Hall next weekend anyway, because I need to wear something blue, and I don’t have anything else. After that though, it’ll go up for sale.

(Best fit bust up to 42″, hips up to 58″, if you’re wondering!)

I’ll take some proper photos once it’s finished.

Embroidered robin. In a hat.

Embroidered robin

This is a robin. Wearing a hat. Of course.

Last week I drew some silly pictures of birds wearing hats, and then spent ages deciding what I could do with them. Ages ago I bought a whole bunch of organic cotton tote bags, with the idea of embroidering designs on them. So, I embroidered the robin onto the tote bag. It looked like this.

I wasn’t very happy with the poor naked robin, so I decided to colour in his breast with a bright red fabric pen. Disaster! The pen came out pink, and no amount of layering would make it any brighter. Not good. Even adding his little embroidered top hat didn’t help.

So, in a fit of madness, I decided to cover up the fabric paint with embroidery. Lots and lots of satin stitch, done in a slightly irregular way, to look a bit like feathers. It took two evenings to finish, and I was completely cross-eyed by the end of it – but I really like it!

Investigating African textiles.

When I worked in a fabric shop, we had a large number of customers who would come in and buy linings and haberdashery to go with the most amazing fabrics that they’d brought with them from Ghana. The image above is a beautiful example of embroidered french lace, which you can buy in the UK from Middlesex Textiles.

I was watching Comic Relief last night, and looking at all of the amazing textiles being worn by the women in Africa.

I buy my organic cottons from Bishopston Trading, who import directly from rural India with the sole aim of fair trading. What I’ve been trying to find out today is whether there’s a company in the UK who works on a similar basis with textile producers in Africa.

I think batiks and wax prints would work beautifully with my new dress, as would the laces and embroideries.

It would be brilliant if I could say that every dress in my future range was made from fabric that had been locally sourced, recycled, organically made or supported fair trade across the world.

To be honest, it seems like the least I can do.

This is what I’ve been up to:

I hope this doesn’t spoil a surprise for anybody whose gift hasn’t arrived in the post yet, but this is why I’ve been a little bit busy and stressed out over the past few weeks.

There’s only one item missing from the photo call, and that’s a hat that I knitted for Paul, mostly in the middle of the night. I ended up resorting to knitting it inside a carrier bag, when he arrived home earlier than I’d expected from his work leaving do! (Thankfully he was slightly drunk and far too tired to wonder what on earth I was doing.)

Most of these are gifts that I gave, but a few were things that I made to be given as gifts by other people.

Oh, and I did finish Bryan’s second sock, but I forgot to take a picture of the pair before I wrapped them up!

Black and white skull & crossbones slippersYellow Flea Market Fancy slippers
Red Katie Jump Rope slippersPink leopard slippers
Pink leopard slippersCoral slippers
Sock Monkey Medicine slippersBryan's Slippers
Dad's slippersMum's slippers
Stef's beaded wrap jacketPaul's eco-hoody
Thelwell tote bagMore skull slippers...
Flower Arranging ApronJo's hat & scarf
Slither glovesA sock and an ex-sock.

More Near Sea Naturals

Thanks to a combination of my new medicine and the truly dreary weather we’ve been having lately, I’ve been finding it very difficult to feel inspired by anything much.

Suddenly, thanks to a little visit from the postman, I feel much better!

Near Sea Naturals

(Sorry about the terrible picture – it’s raining so hard that it’s been dark all day.)

Both of the large pieces of fabric are organic cotton pointelle. Three yards of each, in chestnut and natural. The natural piece won’t stay that way for long – I plan to chuck it in the washing machine and dye it Flamingo Pink! After that, I plan to transform it into a pair of leggings and a top.

(The chestnut piece is going to be transformed into a Christmas present, so I can’t elaborate on that any further.)

The swatches… oooh, where to start!

  • The one with the trees (top left) is Enchanted Forest, and it’s a wonderfully soft twill.
  • The one with the ladybirds is Tickled Pink, on the same twill base. I can imagine pretty skirts made from each of these.
  • The one with the aubergines is Eggplants, which is a hemp and cotton blend in a linen-type weave. I adore the colour and the little gold flecks in the fabric, so I think I might have to send off for a skirt’s-worth in my next order.
  • The plain black swatch is a wonderfully smooth sateen
The swatch packets are for the woven wool fabrics, and the wool knits.
I’m gradually collecting all of Near Sea Naturals’ swatch kits, so that I can show them at craft fairs, and encourage people to place orders.
All I need to do now is work out what I’m going to make…