Goodbye, Bishopston Trading.

The parcel!

Bishopston Trading closes tomorrow, after 28 years in business. This is the statement, in full, from their website:

“It is with great regret and sadness that we have to announce that, after 28 years in business, the Bishopston Trading Company will close at the end of July 2013.
The village of K.V.Kuppam, where our clothes have always been made, has seen huge changes. An entire generation has grown up since we started. All our workers’ children have been educated and very few are now seeking jobs as tailors, embroiderers or appliqué workers. The problem is even more acute with our weavers. In 1985 we formed a partnership with a community of handloom weavers in the village. Weaving is a traditional craft skill, passed down within families. We helped pay for a scheme to enable weavers’ children to stay in school until they were 17 years old. Many have been able to go on to higher education. There are now not enough weavers in the area to keep up with the supplies we need.

While India has developed financially, Britain’s economy has been slow for five years, and this has changed the buying habits of our customers. Our customers tend to be thoughtful, concerned, cautious people (a bit like us). They worry about the environment and over consumption and debt. They have not deserted us but are buying less – this is particularly evident with our online customers.

We can now no longer continue and wish to close down our business voluntarily and ethically and in an honourable way.
We would like to thank our loyal customers, in Britain and around the world, who have supported us for many years.”

The photos, above and below, are from the one and only wholesale order that I placed with them in 2008. To be perfectly honest, I ordered far too much, and five years later I’m still using it. I may have been a small and infrequent customer of Bishopston’s, but I’ll still miss them.

Bishopston fabrics - straight out of the box

There’s something that intrigues me about their statement though, and it’s this:

All our workers’ children have been educated and very few are now seeking jobs as tailors, embroiderers or appliqué workers. The problem is even more acute with our weavers.

So we’ve set up these co-operatives, and we’ve paid fair wages, and we’ve educated all the children… but there’s nobody left to do the weaving. Because traditional skills, passed down from person-to-person, generation-to-generation, simply aren’t valued any more.

Now I’m certainly not saying that any child, anywhere in the world, should have to forego a formal education in favour of sitting at home with multiple generations of their extended family and learning to weave. But if nobody learns how to weave, or sew, or lay bricks, or install plumbing… because those kinds of practical skills simply aren’t valued in an “educated” society… then how long will it be before we’re all naked and homeless? How bad do things have to be before actual practical skills are seen as anything other than menial?

New Bishopston swatches

I’ve learnt a lot of practical skills over the years. I very much doubt I could remember my Girl Guide training in how to make a shelter and find clean water, but I can still make a damn good stand for a plastic washing up bowl, given enough pea sticks and a handy ball of string! I’m hopeless at cooking, but I know how to make bread, how to make butter, and how to forage for some edible plants. (And how to burn baked beans inside the can into an inedible mush over a campfire. Thanks again, Baden-Powell!) I may not be retting a pile of stinging nettles to weave my own cloth, but I’m learning to spin wool, and I can knit, and I can sew and mend my own clothes. I realise that “naked and homeless” is a shameless piece of hyperbole. And I’m all too aware of the hypocrisy of decrying any skills other than the strictly practical whilst sitting at my computer shouting pointlessly at the internet.

What I’m searching for is balance. Something that seems to be lacking almost everywhere I look right now.

Ethical window shopping

I have to confess that I hadn’t looked at the Nomads website recently. I’d always associated Nomads with gothy dresses and plenty of tie-dye, so I sort of assumed they wouldn’t have anything I’d like these days. I can’t remember what drew me to have a look at their website today, but I was very wrong!

This velvet embroidered coat is absolutely beautiful. There’s also a three-quarter length version without the hood, and a matching fitted jacket. I could also happily wear a sari silk kurta, or maybe a cotton kurta for a more casual look.

Then I wandered off to have a look at Bishopston Trading, and this organic cotton pintucked shirt is making me wonder why on earth I thought it was worth the effort of making my own. (I will anyway, because I already have both the pattern and the organic cotton, but it would have been much easier just to buy one!)

People Tree also have a lovely pintucked tunic shirt, which is in the sale. I’m also coveting this striped silk blouse, which has completely ridiculous sleeves. Oh, let’s face it, I’m coveting just about everything from People Tree.

I’m not even going to look at the Gudrun Sjöden website, because I always come away wanting one of everything.

From Bishopston Trading I found out about the FairWear 2010 Fair Trade Fashion Show, which is in Bristol on February 25th. Tickets are only £8 for the daytime and  or £10 for the evening, so I think that’s definitely going to be worth a visit.

All of these lovely things are reminding me that it is possible to dress well and ethically at the same time.

Investigating African textiles.

When I worked in a fabric shop, we had a large number of customers who would come in and buy linings and haberdashery to go with the most amazing fabrics that they’d brought with them from Ghana. The image above is a beautiful example of embroidered french lace, which you can buy in the UK from Middlesex Textiles.

I was watching Comic Relief last night, and looking at all of the amazing textiles being worn by the women in Africa.

I buy my organic cottons from Bishopston Trading, who import directly from rural India with the sole aim of fair trading. What I’ve been trying to find out today is whether there’s a company in the UK who works on a similar basis with textile producers in Africa.

I think batiks and wax prints would work beautifully with my new dress, as would the laces and embroideries.

It would be brilliant if I could say that every dress in my future range was made from fabric that had been locally sourced, recycled, organically made or supported fair trade across the world.

To be honest, it seems like the least I can do.

New Bishopston Fabrics!

New Bishopston swatches

Yes, it’s October, and the new Bishopston swatches have just arrived!

The most exciting thing about this is that they’ve just introduced a new fabric weight – a Fair Trade cotton lawn! They’re the swatches on the left – the colours mostly match the regular cottons, but the fabric is a much lighter weight.

The new cotton lawns can’t be formally certified as organic – the farmers’ plots are so small that they are prone to contamination by chemicals blown across from neighbouring farms. Apparently it takes one weaver a whole working day to weave just 3 metres of cloth by hand! The finished pieces are 19-20 metres long, so that’s a whole week’s work.

I’ve just sent an email to find out whether the lawn comes in black and unbleached, like the regular cottons. Once I know, I can start to work out what my next order’s going to be!