Vintage Haberdashery

button sample card

Today I came to the startling realisation that my mountain of vintage haberdashery isn’t going to sell itself whilst sitting in a box in my sewing room, so I thought it was about time I listed at least some of it on Etsy!

Above you can see a lovely button sample card, and there’s also another sample card with metal buttons, hooks and buckles.

stockings darning kit

This is the one thing that I was really tempted to keep – a gorgeous little leather pouch with five cards of thread especially for mending stockings! The front of the pouch is embossed with gold writing which says “troubles are ended when they are mended”. I did keep one card which has multiple shades of stocking-thread on it in actual stocking colours (like the ones above), and one which has the most gorgeous pastel colours for mending your silk lingerie. Some things are just too lovely to part with!

Also on the “I can’t believe I’m letting this go” list are an enormous folding needle case, and two pretty little card ones.

embroidery transfers

My enormous stash of embroidery transfers are also looking for a good home – this time as a job lot of around 100 sheets. The oldest one in the collection is the lovely Crinoline Lady above, who is conveniently marked May 1939. The rest are a mixture of 40s, 50s and 60s, mostly pulled out of an assortment of needlework magazines. I’ve been taking them out to craft stalls in an enormous great folder, to very little interest, and to be honest I just couldn’t face the thought of listing every single transfer individually. So a job lot it is! I have kept an envelope full of transfers for myself – mostly the ones that had been torn or cut out in places, or written on, or traced. I also kept a few of the smaller designs, as well as the drunken chickens, of course. I’m never going to part with those!

embroidery transfer booklet

Also on the embroidery front, there are two little books of transfers, and a catalogue for already-printed linens. The booklet above features designs for children, so there are Nursery Rhyme characters and little cartoon animals. There’s another which was free with “People’s Friend” magazine, which is also tiny designs but mostly florals.

embroidered coronation brooches

This one, if I’d been organised, probably would have been snatched up in seconds flat if I’d managed to get around to selling it last year in time for the Jubilee! It’s a really gorgeous 1953 transfer set for making Coronation Brooches, never even been unfolded. I couldn’t get a proper photo of the actual transfer sheet, because it seemed a shame to take it out of the original staple for the sake of a picture! Hopefully it’ll be appreciated in its pristine state.

If you’re not terribly interested in royalty, but happen to like dogs, birds, flowers or yachts, there’s another set containing exactly those designs.

And of course, there’s just one Mystery Haberdashery Box left, just waiting for somebody to be brave enough to snap it up! Mind you, if the thing you really wanted from the box was the slightly frightening plastic doll face, you can now buy the last remaining few all in one go.

I’ve got a couple of stalls coming up over the next couple of months, and I’ve been doing a lot of thinking about the INEXPLICABLE EMPORIUM and what I do and don’t want to include in it. Just for once I haven’t been doing that thinking out loud (hence my somewhat sporadic appearances here), but I can tell you that I’m hoping to be around a bit more often from now on.

Vintage embroidery transfers

Vintage Embroidery Transfers

My parents have been clearing out the loft before they move house, and my Mum had vaguely mentioned a box of embroidery transfers. Turns out that the box is about the size of a ream of paper, and crammed absolutely full!

Most of the transfers are from the 1930s and 1940s, with a few from the early 50s including a lovely set of Coronation designs for brooches. The earliest dated one I found was from 1915! Most of the transfers aren’t dated, but the majority of them have a company name and a number. Others have the name of a magazine and an issue number, so it should be relatively easy to track them down and date them properly.

Vintage Embroidery Transfers

There are lots of different crinoline ladies, as you might expect, ranging from the delightfully simple to the impressively large and complicated!

There are also patterns for cross stitch, broderie anglaise and cutwork. Plenty of floral designs, mostly for dressing table sets or chair backs. Lots of designs for brooches too, which surprised me. I hadn’t seen those in any of my 1930s & 40s sewing books, so I wasn’t expecting them. I quite fancy making some now though.

At first I thought the kiwi (the bird, not the fruit) was the most unexpected design, but on reflection I think that award might have to go to the chicken with the soda syphon…

Vintage Embroidery Transfers

Vintage Embroidery Transfers

Vintage Embroidery Transfers

Vintage Embroidery Transfers

Who knew that chickens could have so much fun at a cocktail party?!

I have some vague plans for using the transfers to actually embroider things, and I also have plans to scan them so that I can use the designs without destroying the originals. A couple of people have suggested that I sell the copies, but I’d need to double check the copyright situation. I do want to research them first though, to date them properly, and to put all the matching transfers together. Once I have a bit of Spare Time, I can feel a lovely project coming on.

smocks galore!

Smocking

How exciting – I’m in a magazine!

The magazine in question is a brand-new digital publication by Kate Davies, whose blog I’ve been following and whose knitting patterns I’ve been queueing for some time. So you can imagine how excited I was when she asked me whether I’d be willing to talk about smocking, and what I learned from the collection at the Museum of English Rural Life.

Issue 1 of Textisles is available as a Ravelry download, as it also includes Kate’s Warriston sweater pattern. It talks about the etymology of the word “frock” and the gender of a garment, and there’s a really interesting article about the English Smock. Then there’s a “Meet the Maker” section… which is me!

The next issue is due out in August, and will have a nautical theme featuring Kate’s Betty Mouat design. Whether you’re more interested in the textile history or the knitting patterns, Textisles is a fabulously well-researched and thoroughly interesting magazine. I can’t wait to read the next one – and I’m not even in it!

Beth and Katy

Beth & Katy

Hopefully this parcel has arrived at its destination by now – I don’t want to spoil a surprise!

These little dolls are for Paul’s cousin and her husband, who are now the proud parents of identical twin girls. Catherine and Elizabeth are thankfully known as Katy and Beth for short – otherwise I’d have had a lot more embroidery to do!

Heart Button Cufflinks

The trouble with buying men’s shirts is that the sleeves are always too long. I buy them because it’s quite difficult to find women’s shirts that fasten with cufflinks, unless you can afford to shop at somewhere like Thomas Pink.

Then it can be difficult to find pretty or interesting cufflinks, but fortunately it’s extremely easy to make your own!

This tutorial from Martha Stewart shows you how to make the cufflinks pictured above, from four mother-of-pearl heart shaped buttons.

All you need is four buttons, a needle, and some nice strong thread.

Easy peasy!

Kaylee Aine

Kaylee Aine

Another embroidery for a another friend’s daughter – born just two weeks ago.

This one’s very simple – a nice flowing chain stitch, on silk.

I found it harder to embroider on silk than cotton, because the fabric’s not as stable. Even if you try very hard to keep an even tension, the fabric still likes to move about as you work on it. I’m not sure I’ll try embroidery on silk again, but I’m still pleased with how this turned out.

The parcel should have arrived in Scotland by now, so I hope Kaylee’s parents like it!

Dorset Buttons

Dorset Buttons

Slightly larger than actual size (they’re about an inch across), here are three Dorset Buttons that I made at the weekend. I was too tired to make the waistcoat that these will eventually be sewn onto, so I figured that making the buttons was at least a start.

I followed a tutorial in a 1935 sewing book that I picked up in Oxfam a few weeks ago, but because Everything Exists on the Internet (even if you’d rather it didn’t), I can offer you a link to some instructions from the British Button Society. Mine’s a rather measly “Blandford Cartwheel” with only eight spokes. There’s also a rather lovely picture tutorial at Craft Stylish.

Speaking of tutorials, it’s nice to see that people are actually using some of mine! Becca at Pink Toad Designs made some flower brooches. The buttons she’s used for the centres are gorgeous!

These three buttons are all the sewing I’ve had time for in the past few weeks. A combination of starting a new job in the mornings and helping out at Paul’s office in the afternoons has left me with the time and energy for nothing but working and sleeping.

Smocking workshop this weekend

Just a quick reminder that this weekend is my smocking workshop at the Museum of English Rural Life.

Today is the very last day that you can sign up – in fact you’ve got about an hour and a half left if you want to secure a place!

The course runs from 2:15-4:15 on both Saturday and Sunday, and you need to be able to attend both sessions. It costs £35, and you’ll be provided with all of the materials you need to make a smocked bag.

All abilities are welcome! Even if you’ve never sewn a stitch in your life, this is a simple project that you should be able to manage over the weekend. If you’re an experienced needleworker, then you can used more advanced techniques to produce an intricate design.

To book your place you can call 0118 378 8660, send an email to merlevents@reading.ac.uk, or fill in the online booking form.

Embroidery & Typography

Catherine Elizabeth

This is my latest embroidery, for Catherine Elizabeth May who was born just less than two weeks ago.

The font is Bickham Script Pro, and one of the things I liked about it (along with most of the fonts that I buy) is that it has proper ligatures. A ligature replaces a sequence of single characters with a single conjoined character, as shown in the example below:

Ligatures

(Quick typography fact – the most commonly used ligature is the ampersand, where et becomes &.)

What I didn’t notice until I was almost at the end of the embroidery, is that there are two th ligatures in “Catherine Elizabeth”, and they’re both different! In “Catherine”, the t is a single stroke, joining to the h from the crossbar. The upper loop of the h is also very wide, extending over the top of the following letter e. However at the end of “Elizabeth”, the t joins to the h from the bottom stroke, and the crossbar doesn’t join at all. The loop of the h is also much narrower.

I’m afraid that I’m not going to unpick an entire night’s worth of embroidery in order to make the two ligatures the same. What I am going to do is fiddle around in Photoshop, and try to work out why it decided to render the two ligatures differently.

Smocking on organic cotton

Smocking

This is what I’ve been up to all weekend – working panels of smocking on the front, back and sleeves of one of my tunic dresses.

From top to bottom, the stitches are Trellis, Wave, Honeycomb, Chevron and Van Dyke.

I’m really, really pleased with how the smocking’s worked out.
Unfortunately, I over-estimated how much fabric the smocking would take up in the pleating, and I’ve ended up with a dress that’s much too big for me.

I’m going to be wearing the dress to the Albert Hall next weekend anyway, because I need to wear something blue, and I don’t have anything else. After that though, it’ll go up for sale.

(Best fit bust up to 42″, hips up to 58″, if you’re wondering!)

I’ll take some proper photos once it’s finished.