Goodbye, Bishopston Trading.

The parcel!

Bishopston Trading closes tomorrow, after 28 years in business. This is the statement, in full, from their website:

“It is with great regret and sadness that we have to announce that, after 28 years in business, the Bishopston Trading Company will close at the end of July 2013.
The village of K.V.Kuppam, where our clothes have always been made, has seen huge changes. An entire generation has grown up since we started. All our workers’ children have been educated and very few are now seeking jobs as tailors, embroiderers or appliqué workers. The problem is even more acute with our weavers. In 1985 we formed a partnership with a community of handloom weavers in the village. Weaving is a traditional craft skill, passed down within families. We helped pay for a scheme to enable weavers’ children to stay in school until they were 17 years old. Many have been able to go on to higher education. There are now not enough weavers in the area to keep up with the supplies we need.

While India has developed financially, Britain’s economy has been slow for five years, and this has changed the buying habits of our customers. Our customers tend to be thoughtful, concerned, cautious people (a bit like us). They worry about the environment and over consumption and debt. They have not deserted us but are buying less – this is particularly evident with our online customers.

We can now no longer continue and wish to close down our business voluntarily and ethically and in an honourable way.
We would like to thank our loyal customers, in Britain and around the world, who have supported us for many years.”

The photos, above and below, are from the one and only wholesale order that I placed with them in 2008. To be perfectly honest, I ordered far too much, and five years later I’m still using it. I may have been a small and infrequent customer of Bishopston’s, but I’ll still miss them.

Bishopston fabrics - straight out of the box

There’s something that intrigues me about their statement though, and it’s this:

All our workers’ children have been educated and very few are now seeking jobs as tailors, embroiderers or appliqué workers. The problem is even more acute with our weavers.

So we’ve set up these co-operatives, and we’ve paid fair wages, and we’ve educated all the children… but there’s nobody left to do the weaving. Because traditional skills, passed down from person-to-person, generation-to-generation, simply aren’t valued any more.

Now I’m certainly not saying that any child, anywhere in the world, should have to forego a formal education in favour of sitting at home with multiple generations of their extended family and learning to weave. But if nobody learns how to weave, or sew, or lay bricks, or install plumbing… because those kinds of practical skills simply aren’t valued in an “educated” society… then how long will it be before we’re all naked and homeless? How bad do things have to be before actual practical skills are seen as anything other than menial?

New Bishopston swatches

I’ve learnt a lot of practical skills over the years. I very much doubt I could remember my Girl Guide training in how to make a shelter and find clean water, but I can still make a damn good stand for a plastic washing up bowl, given enough pea sticks and a handy ball of string! I’m hopeless at cooking, but I know how to make bread, how to make butter, and how to forage for some edible plants. (And how to burn baked beans inside the can into an inedible mush over a campfire. Thanks again, Baden-Powell!) I may not be retting a pile of stinging nettles to weave my own cloth, but I’m learning to spin wool, and I can knit, and I can sew and mend my own clothes. I realise that “naked and homeless” is a shameless piece of hyperbole. And I’m all too aware of the hypocrisy of decrying any skills other than the strictly practical whilst sitting at my computer shouting pointlessly at the internet.

What I’m searching for is balance. Something that seems to be lacking almost everywhere I look right now.

Organic Cotton for Sale!

Oh, I have so many things that I’ve made and haven’t told you about yet… and I have a new job, and new ideas and new plans… but first of all I need to do a little bit of clearing out.

It’s more than three years since my order of Bishopston Trading fabrics arrived, and I still have quite a bit left. They’re colours that I was left with when people ordered half a bolt, and they don’t really fit into the scheme of the new things that I want to make. (Nope, not even the pink!)

I have approximately seven metres of green, nine metres of pink and just three metres of blue that need to go to a good home. Or several good homes. So, I’ve set up a Big Cartel shop for the purpose of selling them to you.

The price is £7 per metre, plus a little bit extra for shipping. I’ve also offered the option to buy little sample swatches, so you can see the colours and feel the fabric before you decide whether to order a bigger piece. The green in particular is very difficult to photograph, although the photo above is actually pretty accurate.

Big Cartel only allows for you to order in whole metre increments, but if you did want smaller pieces such as fat quarters, I can do that for you – just leave me a comment or drop me an email. (claire@eternalmagpie.com)

Once I’ve re-homed this little lot, I can then buy some lovely organic cotton jersey and fleece. I’ve just designed a lovely little cropped hoody, and am working on some pretty skirts and tops. Watch this space…

Organic Cotton Skirt Ideas

Skirt ideas

Starting to work with the organic cottons again reminded me that I’d already put together some designs for skirts that were very similar to the blue cotton tunic dress. Large pockets and a ruffle, although I think I’d go for an elastic waistband rather than darts and a zip.

I drafted these little sketches way back in 2008, when I was also going through a phase of buying lots of recycled fabrics, mostly in the form of duvet covers. I thought I could use the matching pillowcases to make the ruffles and pockets, and do you know what? I think that might just work! Why it’s taken me three years to get around to doing anything with this idea, I’m not so sure.

I have four colours of organic cotton left in the stash – blue, green, pink and cream. My favourite place to buy organic cottons has a special offer on pot-luck remnant pieces, so I might buy a bundle and see what turns up. That, along with the Kaffe Fassett fat quarters, should give me plenty of choices for contrasting waistbands and pockets.

Blue Organic Cotton Dress

Blue organic cotton dress

This is a little tunic dress, from one of my own patterns. The main body of the dress is blue organic cotton from Bishopston Trading. The yoke and assorted other parts are also organic cotton, from Kaffe Fassett’s collection for Rowan a few years ago.

The pockets are set into the side seams, because it seemed like a good way of creating a nice sturdy finish. As the tunic is so full, next time I think I’ll make patch pockets and place them a little further towards the centre.

I’ve worn this with and without the belt, and I think it looks great either way. The belt is made from 5cm elastic, simply covered with matching fabric which gathers as the elastic contracts. The ends are fastened with loops and matching fabric-covered buttons. Next time I’ll add a slightly thicker interfacing, or perhaps a scrap of corset coutil, to make the front panels a little less likely to fold over on themselves. I also need to make another one about two inches longer, as this one’s a bit too tight for my liking!

I’ve been thinking for a long time about what to make with my organic cottons, and I’m really pleased with this tunic and belt. This is going to be the start of some thinking out loud in fabric, as I try to work out which styles might be available for sale.

Ethical window shopping

I have to confess that I hadn’t looked at the Nomads website recently. I’d always associated Nomads with gothy dresses and plenty of tie-dye, so I sort of assumed they wouldn’t have anything I’d like these days. I can’t remember what drew me to have a look at their website today, but I was very wrong!

This velvet embroidered coat is absolutely beautiful. There’s also a three-quarter length version without the hood, and a matching fitted jacket. I could also happily wear a sari silk kurta, or maybe a cotton kurta for a more casual look.

Then I wandered off to have a look at Bishopston Trading, and this organic cotton pintucked shirt is making me wonder why on earth I thought it was worth the effort of making my own. (I will anyway, because I already have both the pattern and the organic cotton, but it would have been much easier just to buy one!)

People Tree also have a lovely pintucked tunic shirt, which is in the sale. I’m also coveting this striped silk blouse, which has completely ridiculous sleeves. Oh, let’s face it, I’m coveting just about everything from People Tree.

I’m not even going to look at the Gudrun Sjöden website, because I always come away wanting one of everything.

From Bishopston Trading I found out about the FairWear 2010 Fair Trade Fashion Show, which is in Bristol on February 25th. Tickets are only £8 for the daytime and  or £10 for the evening, so I think that’s definitely going to be worth a visit.

All of these lovely things are reminding me that it is possible to dress well and ethically at the same time.