Another piece of Marcy Tilton magic

Vogue 8975

This is some organic cotton jersey, bought from the Organic Textile Company, oooh, ages ago. It was sold as seconds because it had been dried in a malfunctioning drier, and smelled terribly of exhaust fumes. Thankfully a quick trip through my own washer and dryer sorted that out, no problem at all. But it wasn’t until I came to iron the fabric before cutting into it that I spotted this perfect hand print! Fortunately it’s on the inside, but it did make me laugh to see it. Genuine evidence of the handmade nature of the fabric!

Vogue 8975

The jersey has now been transformed into Vogue 8975, another Marcy Tilton pattern. That woman must be some kind of pattern drafting genius, because I’ve finished making this dress, and worn it a couple of times, and I still have absolutely no idea how all of the pattern pieces came together to make this shape.

Vogue 8975

I used masking tape on all of the cut pieces, partly to identify the right and wrong sides of the fabric, and partly to make sure that I was sewing everything together the right way up. My diagonal seam across the back has ended up going in the opposite direction from the illustration on the pattern envelope, but other than that it all seems to have come together rather well!

Vogue 8975

I did annotate the pattern as I was going along. I found it very important to just throw out all of the things I thought I knew about dressmaking, and just follow the instructions. Where it says “stop stitching at small circle”, you stop stitching at the small circle, even if you have a weird triangle-y piece of fabric sticking out in an inexplicable manner, even if you think you know better, or want to try and take a shortcut. Just don’t. Trust the instructions, and it will all come out fine in the end!

Vogue 8975

Ta-Daa! My only deviation from the instructions was in the binding of the armhole edges, and I wish I’d just followed the pattern. Instead of a smooth armscye, I now have slightly flanged minuscule cap sleeves, which I didn’t really want. This is what happens when you’re trying to finish sewing a dress at eleven o’clock at night because you really want to wear it to work the next day, and you decide that trimming away the seam allowances and binding them properly will “take too long”. (Note to self: It would have taken exactly the same amount of time, and looked much nicer. Next time: Do It Properly.)

Vogue 8975

As with my previous Marcy Tilton patterns, I went down from my usual Vogue size and cut out a medium. This has given me a perfect fit across the top (where I’m smallest), and the shape of the pattern means that there’s plenty of room at the waist and hips. I think my only disappointment with this design (and it’s ever such a tiny one) is that the pockets aren’t actually as big as all that draping makes them look. They don’t need to be huge, but I think I will alter the pattern slightly to make them just an inch or so longer.

I’ve worn this dress a couple of times now, and I’m extremely tempted to make another identical one. It’s so comfortable to wear, and I’m so pleased with how it looks, I’m definitely going to need more than one of these in my wardrobe!

Search for the perfect dress

McCalls M5924

 

Every now and then I get a bee in my bonnet about finding “the perfect dress”. Over the years it’s been vintage patterns that weren’t even remotely the same shape as my body, fiddly patterns that I hated to sew, or patterns that looked beautiful but turned out to be really uncomfortable to wear. I have dozens of these in my wardrobe, but it wasn’t until this morning that I realised the perfect dress is already amongst them.

McCalls 5924

This is McCalls 5924 (now out of print), and I’ve made two so far. The top one is a nice heavy cotton jersey, the one above is a lightweight drapey viscose knit, and the pattern works equally well in both. They’re empire line, which suits my shape, they have the all-important pockets, they layer well, and they’re really, really comfortable. I have enough fabric in the stash to make at least two more, and I don’t know what’s taken me so long!

While I was thinking about my wardrobe and the things I’d like to add to it, I added some more Gossypium yoga pants to my wish list. Then I realised that there’s almost certainly a yoga pants pattern out there somewhere, which is when I spotted New Look 6165. Not only yoga pants, but a skirt with the same fold-over waist! Ideal for wearing over leggings, and no elastic to dig in and give me a stomach ache. Perfect!

Of course, there’s always room for more than one “perfect dress” in any wardrobe. Which brings me to Vogue 8975. Another Marcy Tilton pattern (like the smocked silk dress), this time for knit fabrics and complete with a little jacket to wear over the top. Conveniently, my local fabric shop has a sale on both New Look and Vogue patterns at the moment, so I think a trip into town will be forthcoming early next week!

My next challenge will be to go through both my wardrobe and my pattern stash, and get rid of some things that I’m simply never going to wear or make. I’m the sort of person who will quite happily buy clothes in multiples if I find something that I like, so I have no problem at all with wearing the same few dresses over and over again. I’m trying not to think about how much money I must have spent over the years on patterns that didn’t suit me once they were made up, or fabric that turned out to be difficult to look after or uncomfortable to wear. All of that trial and error has brought me here – to the knowledge of which patterns I like to sew, and which clothes I like to wear. The photo above is an old one, but despite all the dressmaking I do, I basically live in a hoody, a stripy t-shirt, and a pair of ancient jeans that haven’t fit properly for a long time. Time for a bit of an overhaul, I think!

Psychedelic Dress

Psychedelic Dress

This is a test-run of Kwik Sew 3472, a simple jersey dress. It also has options for a knee-length version, a scoop neck and short sleeves. The fabric, I promise you, isn’t anywhere near as loud as it looks in this photo! In real life the colours are much more muted and dusky. I figured that any mistakes I made on this first try wouldn’t show up too badly against this very swirly pattern, but thankfully it seems to have come out pretty well! I think the only change I might make is to shorten it a bit, but I’ll wear it first and see how it goes.

I have nine metres of organic cotton jersey on order, ready to make three more of these – two black, and one purple. That should give me a basic work wardrobe that goes with most of my existing shoes and accessories. My fibromyalgia’s playing me up quite badly at the moment, which is seriously limiting what I can comfortably wear. Separates give me stomach ache. Anything that isn’t soft enough makes me itch. And frankly I need every scrap of my brain power to be working for me through the tiredness, not fighting against my uncomfortable clothes.

I realise this all sounds very dramatic, but unfortunately it just seems to be a fact of life for me now. Wearing uncomfortable clothes causes pain, which causes fatigue, and life’s too short to be exhausted because my stupid jeans gave me a blister. I’m sad and angry about it, because it seems as though I’m going to have to get rid of about 80% of my current wardrobe, including a lot of things that I’ve made for myself over the years. The thought of sending it all off to the charity shop makes me utterly furious that my body has decided to do this to me.

But hey, let’s look on the bright side. I get to make a whole new wardrobe of the softest organic cotton dresses.

Also, I have one really nice picture that Paul took of me at the Frome Steampunk Extravaganza. I’ll show you that one soon.

Spotty cotton & bamboo

Organic cotton & bamboo

Here’s my latest order from my lovely organic cotton people. Three metres each of spotty and plain organic cotton and bamboo blend. Isn’t it lovely? It’s in the washing machine at the moment, and I’m expecting it to be super soft when it comes out. The almost-matching thread’s organic too, and I’m planning to buy a lot more of this in future.

When the pattern eventually turns up in the UK, I’m going to turn it into Simplicity 1755. I might have let out a little squeal when I saw this dress. It’s everything I usually look for in a vintage pattern – cute collar, raglan sleeves, full skirt, pockets… but in a modern size, which means I don’t have to wear terrifying underwear or spend days re-drafting the pattern only to discover that it still doesn’t fit. Marvellous!

The sample swatches are Texweave, which is a lovely heavyweight woven fabric, perfect for coats or upholstery, and Super Jersey, which is another cotton/bamboo blend. It really does feel super too, so soft, and with just enough elastane to make sure it doesn’t go baggy. I can feel some lovely soft pyjamas coming on, or perhaps a vest or two.

I have a lovely big tin full of their fabric samples now – every time they bring out something new I send off for the samples straight away. This means that any time I want to go fabric shopping, I can simply pull down the tin and look at all the little squares. Much easier than just picking something at random from the website and hoping for the best!

McCalls 5924

McCalls 5924

I haven’t been able to settle to anything for the past couple of days (I’ve been unwell again) so I made a very simple little dress. It’s McCalls 5924, which I’ve made before.

The first incarnation came out a little on the generous side, so this time I trimmed the pattern down a size. This jersey’s also much more light and drapey than the cotton lycra I used the first time, and I think it suits this style better. I am a bit worried that it might stretch out of shape though, as the skirt’s pretty heavy to hang from such a little bodice. There is an option to add elastic at the waist, but the casing adds a lot of bulk and I didn’t want it to be tight.

It’s more flattering on than it looks on the dressform, and the most important thing for me is that it’s really comfortable. Not tight at the waist, nice soft fabric, and it has pockets. Perfect.

(Also, the pink flowers match my Fairysteps handbag.)

Now I just need to find some orange woolly tights to wear with it, and I’ve reached the height of mad-art-teacher chic. Excellent!

And the award for the most ridiculous sleeves goes to…

McCalls 6164

…McCalls 6164!

I saw a couple of incarnations of McCalls 6164 over at Gigi Sews, and couldn’t believe that this pattern had passed me by. I’m a huge fan of 80s-style pouffy sleeves, so I couldn’t resist grabbing the pattern and sewing view D, which seems to have the most ridiculous sleeves of them all.

The fullness in the sleeve head is created with both pleats and gathers. There is an additional option to do something clever with organza that makes the shoulders defy gravity, but even I thought that was taking things a bit too far.

I made a size Medium, but gave myself a bit of additional room in the waist. All the seams are done on the overlocker, and the neckline and hem simply have the serged edge turned to the inside and topstitched. I might actually go back and make a deeper hem, because it seems to have a tendency to roll up. I also need to make the bottom of the sleeves a little bit narrower. They’re designed to be about six inches longer than your arms, so that they ruche at the bottom, but I’ve got quite little hands and they keep falling down.

It was a really easy top to make, and uses less than two metres of fabric despite the length of the sleeves. For a proper 1980s vibe, I think I’ll be making a crushed velvet one next.

Dotty Dress

McCalls 9456

This is incarnation number two of McCalls 9456. (Here’s the first one.)

As you can see, this is a knee-length version with short sleeves. The fabric is a viscose/cotton jersey which is just hovering around the edges of being too fiddly for me to work with. It’s very light and drapey, and even using the differential feed on my sewing machine it did have a tendency to drag. I edged the sleeves and hem on the overlocker.

This is the second glorious weekend in a row that I’ve been stuck indoors sewing, instead of making the most of the weather and getting out into the garden. The reason this time is that we’re having a new kitchen delivered this week, and that means putting the entire contents of the existing kitchen out in my sewing Shed. I won’t be able to get at the machine or the cutting table for two or three weeks, so I wanted to get this little dress done first.

I’m going into hospital at the beginning of May, and I’ll be on crutches when I come out again, so I wanted a simple little dress that I can wear for lounging around. Wearing this one should cheer me up nicely… and if I get bored while I’m recuperating, I can always embroider something in the spots!

New job, new dress.

McCalls M5924

The reason I’ve been a bit quiet lately is because I’ve got a new job! As well as volunteering at the Museum of English Rural Life, I’m also working there as a Learning Assistant. This is a temporary position which lasts for the duration of the school holidays, so you’ll have to excuse me if I don’t have time to blog as much as usual.

It might seem odd to have made a dress with long sleeves and a high neck in the middle of summer. I’m working on the reception desk of the museum though, just inside the main doors, so sometimes it can get a bit chilly. (Plus I’m always cold, so lots of my clothes have long sleeves.) The fabric’s a lightweight cotton interlock, so hopefully it’ll be the perfect weight.

The pattern is McCalls M5924, and when it says “easy” it really means it! This is view B, with long sleeves and a high neck. View A has elbow-length sleeves, and a contrast panel at the hem. My favourite thing about this dress is the pockets. That makes it extra practical as well as extra comfortable.

I’ve been looking through my fabric stash, and I have enough remnants of stretch cotton to make collars and sleeves in pink leopard print, blue spots and black & grey stripes. I think it would be nice to make one with a contrast bodice and skirt as well.

This one’s not quite finished – I haven’t yet hemmed the ends of the sleeves, or the skirt. I’m just trying to decide whether to make a plain hem, as per the pattern, or whether to add a little bit of stretch lace. As soon as it’s done, I think I’m going to find myself wearing this one a lot.

Frantic Displacement Activity.

I’m almost there with the Christmas gift sewing! Just a few pieces to finish off by hand in front of the television, and then I’ll be done.

Oh, and one complete garment to make from scratch.

I’m not sure why, instead of making that garment, I decided to make a little something for myself. Call it frantic displacement activity.

Reindeer cowl jersey top

This draped top is half of Butterick 4920, another from my collection of patterns I’ve been hoarding for so long that they’ve been discontinued!

The pattern is actually for a tunic or dress, with an elasticated dropped waist. I didn’t have enough fabric to make the whole thing, so I simply left off the skirt part and just made the top.

The front and back are grey cotton lycra, which I’d previously coloured using Dylon Antique Grey washing machine dye. It was white, but there was a dirty mark which wouldn’t come out. Thankfully the dye has covered that nicely.

The sleeves and inside front are made from a very lightweight cotton jersey. I bought this cute little reindeer print several years ago, but couldn’t find just the right pattern for it. I was shuffling some fabrics around this afternoon, and just happened to drop these two in a pile together. Aha!

Grey jersey, grey reindeer, red overlocked hems to match their little noses. Perfect.

I’ll be wearing this on Christmas day, with a pair of floppy white trousers. Very festive!