A long (overdue) skirt

long green skirt made from recycled tablecloth
long green skirt made from recycled tablecloth

Skirt up a tree! A very bare lilac tree, on a sunny winter’s day. It snowed on the morning that I took this, just a little bit, and the rest of the day was bright sunshine. Lovely.

The colour doesn’t show too brilliantly here, it’s actually a lovely green overdyed on top of a gorgeous swirly coral-like pattern. The translucent effect is what happens when you dye over an existing pattern, particularly on a polyester/cotton blend fabric. The dye doesn’t stick to the polyester, so you get a lovely textured effect. In its former life the fabric was a big circular Marks & Spencer tablecloth, and the ruffle is original.

I made it for Sarah of Rainbright Photography, as a very long overdue swap for the gorgeous photo shoot she did for me back in June. (Seven months! Oh dear. Sorry Sarah!)

I find it difficult to photograph skirts – even on the mannequin they look a bit sad because it’s the movement as you wear them that brings them to life. This one has pockets (of course!), and the waistband is elasticated at the back so it should be super comfy. With leggings or nice thick tights underneath, it will be nice and warm for the impending cold weather – not that winter is putting Sarah off from getting outside with her camera. If you follow her on Facebook or Instagram, you’ll see lots of gorgeous winter portraits, and there’s even a special package where you can book a set of photo shoots across all four seasons!

Christmas Sewing – Peter Pan skirts!

elastic waist child's skirt made from Peter Pan fabric
elastic waist child’s skirt made from Peter Pan fabric

I made a couple of simple skirts for my niece this Christmas. As is often the way, I was lured over to Elephant in my Handbag, who have some excellent novelty prints including this fabulous Peter Pan design by Sarah Jane for Michael Miller. 

elastic waist child's skirt made from Peter Pan fabric
elastic waist child’s skirt made from Peter Pan fabric

While I was there, I also snapped up the very last piece of this gorgeous border print featuring Peter Pan, Wendy, John and Michael (and Michael’s teddy bear, just hidden around the side!) flying over a London cityscape. 

They really are the simplest little skirts to make. I know I’ve said this about a lot of things, but I really must write up a tutorial for you sometime. For a skirt that will fit a child up to about age seven or eight, all you need is half a metre of fabric and enough elastic to go around their waist. Easy peasy! 

I’ve lost count of how many of these little skirts I’ve made for her, but I absolutely love seeing pictures of my niece wearing them. It warms my heart that she’s almost eight, and still (for now) happy to wear things that her silly Aunty makes. 

Blast from the Past – skirts (part two)

blast from the past - Paddington recycled duvet cover skirt
blast from the past – Paddington recycled duvet cover skirt

These photos are from 2007 again – when I first got really into making clothes from recycled fabrics, and especially from novelty prints. This fantastic Paddington design made this a-line skirt and, if I remember correctly, a pair of pyjamas too! 

blast from the past - Yoda skirt
blast from the past – Yoda skirt

This is another one that I made for myself, and wore until it was threadbare. I made it specifically to wear to a job that I took at my husband’s office, working with the web development team. I was devastated that nobody noticed it was a Star Wars print until I pointed it out!

I’m almost ashamed to say that these skirts didn’t have pockets. They’re just a very simple knee length a-line style, with no waistband, and a zip at the centre back. If I were to make them again, they would most definitely have pockets – maybe in the side seams, maybe jeans style.

Is this something you’d like to see added to the website, perhaps?

Blast from the Past – skirts (part one)

blast from the past - eternal magpie skull skirt
blast from the past – eternal magpie skull skirt

Please excuse the teeny-tiny picture – this photo is from 2007, when my digital camera apparently had fewer pixels than my phone does now! 

This was my very favourite skirt for years and years, and I wore it until the elastic gave out and the fabric went very thin indeed. I called this a “stealth goth” skirt, because it looked so colourful and pretty from a distance that it usually took people a long time to notice that the design was actually skulls!

blast from the past - eternal magpie space skirt
blast from the past – eternal magpie space skirt

This one was a very close run second – and I think the first skirt that I ever made from an old duvet cover. The print is space travel, and features carefully labelled astronauts, space craft and planets. 

eternal magpie TARDIS skirt
eternal magpie TARDIS skirt

The reason I stopped making these skirts is that the frilled elastic I used for the waistbands has been discontinued. There is a similar one now available, but it isn’t as soft, and it’s three times more expensive, which adds quite a lot onto the cost of the finished skirt. I’m still thinking about whether that’s going to be a viable option for the future. I’ve been using up the last few little elastic scraps to make skirts for my niece, but I’ve very nearly run out altogether. 

eternal magpie Star Wars skirt
eternal magpie Star Wars skirt

The other nice thing about making skirts for my niece is that I can use licensed fabrics, which I don’t do for eternal magpie unless the customer supplies them to me.

(There’s a huge grey area about what you can and can’t make with licensed character fabrics, particularly now that Star Wars belongs to Disney, who are very hot on preventing infringement.) 

ball dress pattern and Star Wars fabric
ball dress pattern and Star Wars fabric

I’d originally bought this fabric – which glows in the dark! – to make a dress for my niece and a pair of pyjamas for my husband. Then my niece decided that she’d rather have a skirt, and my husband decided that glow in the dark pyjamas might be a bit disturbing… so I find myself with quite a large piece left over. I know it’s silly, but I have to confess that the temptation to buy some bright orange lining and made myself a ridiculous Hallowe’en dress is extremely strong right now.

Bad Influence: Dott!

dott's upcycled Beano skirt
dott’s upcycled Beano skirt

Just to be clear, I have been a bad influence on Dott, she has not been a bad influence on me! 

Way back in the mists of time, I made a dress and a corset for Dott, from a vintage Dennis the Menace duvet cover. After a more recent conversation about making things from duvet covers (a topic always close to my heart), Dott bought this fantastic red and black one, and made herself a skirt! 

It’s self-drafted, pattern-matched at the side seams, and of course it has nice big pockets! Head on over to Dott’s blog, to see more photos and details of how she made it. Isn’t it brilliant?

Waltz on the Wye – Saturday

Saturday

Saturday was mostly spent at Chepstow Castle, exploring the site and looking at the extremely inspirational contraptions exhibition. We also ate some very good pies at the Chepstow Castle Inn. (Mmmm, pie…) Paul went to Professor Elemental‘s chap-hop workshop while I mooched  slowly back to the hotel, stopping at all the antique and charity shops on the way.

Saturday

The two skirts are from my own patterns. The waistcoat’s Style 1815, in a lovely shot silk, and the jacket is Vogue 8299. Even for a cropped style, it came out a little shorter than I’d expected! At least it shows off the waistcoat nicely though, unlike the shirt (TM Lewin) and bow tie (Kwik Sew 3183) which remained sadly unseen. The brooches were a gift from Miss Alice, and I knitted the mittens in a tearing hurry, casting them off on Friday morning before we left. They’re made from Rowan Felted Tweed. Boots (Moonshine) and handbag (Elder) from Fairysteps, of course!

Saturday

Lesson of the day? Just because your skirt pockets are big enough to hold an A5 book, a folded pillowcase, a small bottle of hazelnut liqueur, a pair of mittens, several oddments of haberdashery and a little pile of business cards, it doesn’t mean that you should shove all those things in at once. Especially not if the waistband’s elastic. Yes, once again, I embarrass myself so you don’t have to!

Organic cotton/bamboo skirt

Cotton/Bamboo Skirt

After years of buying only sample pieces from organiccotton.biz, I finally got around to ordering some yardage. The skirt above is a blend of organic cotton and bamboo, and it’s beautifully soft and drapey.

I don’t believe most of the claims about bamboo fabric having practically magical anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties. The plant material (which does have those qualities) needs to go through so many processes before it can be spun, it’s doubtful whether any of its beneficial aspects would survive. However, it’s a very good fibre to use for fabric. It needs no pesticides to grow, uses far less water than cotton, and it grows so rapidly that it’s quick to replenish, which means you don’t need acres of space to plant it. Even better, the fabric it produces is unbelievably soft.

This is my usual ruffled skirt – take one calf length a-line skirt pattern, and stick a ten-inch ruffle on the bottom. Simple! It has pockets in the side seams, and the edges of the ruffle are overlocked with a satin stitch.

Waistband

The waistband I pretty much made up as I went along. It’s based on an old favourite skirt that wore out long ago. The centre channel has a bias tape drawstring threaded through two eyelets. The channels above and below have narrow elastic threaded through.

Things I learnt as I was making it?

  1. Thread the drawstring through before the elastic.
  2. Make absolutely certain that the elastic isn’t twisted.
  3. Whilst the bias tape foot for my sewing machine is a marvellous invention, I need to learn how to make the joins in the bias strip go through it more smoothly.

Leaf detail

The finishing detail is this pair of little leaves on the ends of the drawstring. They each have an offcut of batting inside, making them a little bit textured and squishy. I was torn between overlocking the edges or leaving them raw so that they’d fray a little in the wash. I do like the satin stitch edge, not least because they make the leaves stand out against the skirt, but it isn’t as tidy as I’d have liked. A little more practice needed, perhaps.

I keep going on about the softness of the fabric, but that really is its stand-out quality for me. It’s like the softest sheets you’ve ever slept on, or that favourite shirt you’ve been wearing for years.

I’m working on a set of costumes at the moment, all of which seem to be made with synthetic fabrics and have lots of fiddly little details. It’s been really nice to take a break and sew something simple, that feels like a little bit of luxury.

Vaguely Victorian

I’ve been asked to work an extra day this week to help out with a school visit, for which I may have heard myself ask my boss “would you like me to come in dressed as a Victorian?”. The session goes with the Victorian part of our building, Palmer House, which was designed by Waterhouse (of Natural History Museum and Reading Town Hall fame) and built in 1880-82.

Paul, bless him, has managed to rein me in from “I NEED TO MAKE A COMPLETE PERIOD-CORRECT VICTORIAN OUTFIT BY TUESDAY” to “please can we have a look in your wardrobe first”.

Victorian-ish outfit

However, I may have used “dressing up as a Victorian for work” as an excuse to buy a corset. I chose a black brocade one which was on the “corset of the day” offer for £25. It ended up costing me almost £40 by the time I’d paid vat and extra for super-fast shipping, but I still call that a bargain. It’s not expertly made, but it’s no worse than any Vollers corset I’ve owned in the past, and it gives a “Victorian enough” shape under all those layers, so I’m happy with that.

The website was a bit weird – I kept finding other people’s things added to my shopping cart and at one point it kept telling me that I was logged in as somebody else, which made me very nervous about giving them my credit card details. But I placed my order at five to three on Friday, 3pm being the cut off for next day delivery, expecting it to arrive on Monday. The postman knocked on the door at 9:30 on Saturday morning, with my corset! So that was extremely impressive. (He also brought my lingerie-sewing book which I thought had got lost in the trans-atlantic post, so hooray for that too!)

Victorian-ish outfit

I posted on Facebook about making a Victorian outfit in a hurry, and Chris from Progress Theatre offered to lend me a bustle pad from their wardrobe. I replaced the worn-out elastic with cotton tape, and I think it’ll make quite an acceptable late-Victorian silhouette.

Victorian-ish outfit

Next I added my lilac petticoat, for volume, and a plain white vest to cover up the black dress and corset. I went for black foundation layers because I’d originally intended to wear a black blouse, but the two I thought might be suitable turned out to have inappropriate sleeves.

Victorian-ish outfit

Here’s a side view with the bustle. Is my bum going to look big in this? 😉

Victorian-ish outfit

Next layer: the ivory lawn pintucked blouse that I usually wear for being a rural Edwardian when I’m out with the clog dancers.

Victorian-ish outfit

I spent all day making this skirt, but unfortunately velvet doesn’t photograph at all well in poor light so I can’t show it to you properly. It’s Simplicity 2207, the same as my red and black stripy one.

Victorian-ish outfit

And for the finishing touches: a black wool man’s dress waistcoat, a length of black ribbon, and a marcasite brooch in the shape of an owl. I wear this waistcoat to work quite often, usually with the owl on the lapel.

Victorian-ish outfit

I must admit that I’m not completely convinced by the bustle, even though it’s much smaller with the weight of the velvet skirt on the top. I was looking at photographs of Victorian teachers and the more I see the less I’m convinced that a bustle, even a small one, was worn underneath everyday workwear.

I’ll try the whole outfit on together, and hopefully I’ll be able to get some better photos while I’m at work tomorrow. I can’t do much about my extremely un-Victorian hair and glasses, sadly, but I think this is not too bad, considering I had almost all of it lurking in my wardrobe already!

Outfit: 13th January 2012

13/01/12

In the spirit of trying to actually wear the things I make, and to wear more handmade things in general, here’s what I wore to work last Friday. (I don’t know why Paul, who is a good photographer, is incapable of taking a decent picture of me, but never mind.)

Cardigan: Colinette “Cate” in Rowan Polar. I love the style, but the yarn’s gone a bit bobbly and horrible. And it has an annoying tendency to fall off my shoulders.
Brooches: You can’t see them in this picture, but I used two little brooches to fasten the cardigan at either side of the waist. A Christmas gift from Miss Alice, they’re about the size of scrabble tiles, with pictures of bees on them. 🙂
Skirt: the herringbone one I made last week. Apparently it doesn’t photograph well with a flash.
Petticoat: Long lilac elasticated petticoat, with matching broderie anglais trim.
Lace shawl: Made by Lettice. I wear this A LOT.
Earrings: I made these for our wedding, from vintage beads given to me by Paul’s Mum.
Glasses: Gok Wan at Specsavers
Boots: Christmas gift from Paul, Dr Martens “Mel Martine”, limited edition colour from Schuh.
T-shirt: H&M, a few years ago.

I also arrived at work wearing a handmade coat and hat. Apparently I don’t have a picture of my pink silk Wurm hat. I should probably rectify this, given that I’m wearing it every day at the moment!

Comments from my colleagues ranged from “I had an outfit just like that in the 1970s” to “you look more Victorian than my daughter, who’s gone to school dressed like a Victorian for the day!”

I’d wondered whether wearing such a long skirt might be annoying at work, but it was fine. Bit of a nuisance going up all the stairs, but I escaped unscathed from the mess of the salt-dough-making (I wore a home-made apron…), and felt thoroughly comfortable. I think I can make the outfit look smarter by wearing a tailored shirt rather than a t-shirt, and I want to dig out my waistcoat patterns, and maybe knit a tank top or two. Useful when you roll up your sleeves a lot at work!

So, that was an enormously waffly way of saying that I mostly made and wore an outfit that I really liked. I feel a little bit better for that. Hooray!

Herringbone Skirt

Herringbone Skirt

Please excuse the terrible photo, it’s very dark out here in my Shed! I took a couple of hours off from making theatre costumes, to treat myself to a new skirt for work.

It’s made from the same herringbone linen/wool blend as my giant trousers, and I should have enough left over to make either a waistcoat or maybe even a small jacket.

The skirt’s based on my usual a-line pattern, but with added jeans-style pockets. Next time I’ll make them a little deeper so I can put my hands right in without pulling the skirt down. I couldn’t find any matching fancy elastic, so I made a simple straight waistband and threaded plain elastic through.

One day I’ll find a nice strong elastic that I’m happy with. I haven’t yet managed to source one that doesn’t stretch out and go baggy – sometimes even as you’re pulling it through the casing! At least with this style it’s easy enough to take the old elastic out and replace it.

I’m still working to find that balance between the streamlined look of a zip and waist facing and the comfort of elastic. This fabric doesn’t help because it’s quite bouncy, which adds a bit of bulk to the gathers. It’s also soft though, and I’m hoping it’ll calm down a bit after a trip or two through the washing machine.

It’s hard to tell from the picture, but the skirt’s actually a sort of greyish-brown colour. I ‘m thinking of teaming it with burnt orange tights (if I can stand to wear them all day) and a mustard coloured top. Failing that it’ll be brown knee socks and a brown t-shirt, with my purple boots and purple lace shawl for a splash of colour. I’ll see how I feel in the morning – and I’ll try and take a photo or two in daylight!