Tag: Vogue

Yoga pants and psychic powers.

Last week I was looking at these lovely yoga pants from Gossypium, and lamenting that I didn’t have £35 to spend on a pair of trousers just at the moment.

Today I was finally able to reach into my pattern stash at the back of the Shed (which still has a great deal of kitchen piled up in front of it, as we gradually move everything back indoors) and pulled out Vogue 8396. I must have been hanging on to this pattern for a long while, as it’s now out of print, but version C has that fold-over waist that I was looking for.

I unfolded all the pieces and pulled out the ones I’d need to make the trousers in view C. Then I tried to figure out which size to cut. Unfortunately I didn’t bring my psychic powers out with me today, which means that I still don’t know.

The trouble with dressmaking is that the measurements given on the pattern envelope are almost never the same as the finished measurements of the garment that you’re making. That’s because each pattern has a certain amount of “ease” built in, to make sure that you can still breathe and eat and sit down and move around once your garment’s finished. So the pattern pieces usually tell you the actual measurements of the finished garment.

Except that this one doesn’t.

Given that they’re close-fitting trousers, made from stretchy fabric, it would be reasonable to assume that there isn’t any ease – that the measurements given on the envelope are the ones you’ll end up with. But then again, stretch garments (especially leggings) tend to have negative ease, so that they stretch when you put them on. That’s how they stay up.

Normally I’d cut out the pattern, pin it together and carefully try it on – but for a stretch garment that doesn’t really work. I can’t afford to waste either the time or the fabric to make a pair of trousers that don’t actually fit, so I guess I need to iron the pattern pieces, measure them carefully, subtract the seam allowances, and try to work it out that way.

Or, given that the Gossypium ones are now reduced to half price, I might just give in and buy a pair!

Andrea Katz Objects

This afternoon I went and had a little look at the Vogue Patterns website, to see whether they had any patterns I could modify for a dress idea I was thinking about. Before I’d even got that far I discovered that the new season’s patterns have been released, and this is one of them.

It’s a jumpsuit by Andrea Katz, who has a few designs with Vogue at the moment. Andrea’s clothes are described as “Architectural Objects for the Body”, which is precisely what I love about them. The jumpsuit is originally from Andrea’s Spring/Summer 09 Collection, which also contains such beauties as this bustled coat and a draped dress with the most bonkers pockets I’ve ever seen.

I can imagine it in plain black linen, or the chocolate brown herringbone linen I’ve ben using lately, or maybe a lovely soft wool crepe. I can imagine it with knee socks and brogues, or tall Doc Martens and stripy sleeves.

I know perfectly well that people will probably point and laugh at me in the street if I make and wear this jumpsuit. The question is – do I care?

To be honest, probably not.

Although my husband has just kindly informed me that “it looks like a clown outfit. From the eighties.”

*sigh*

Green cord trousers

Vogue 1034

I’m not sure that a pair of olive green cords would have been on my shopping list, but I had the fabric in the Shed, and I wanted to test out Vogue 1034. This time I’ve been able to make a pair of trousers that actually fit me, and with only a minimal amount of adjustment to the pattern.

These jeans are a “today’s fit” design, which means that the measurements are given in actual inches rather than spurious dress sizes. I looked at the body measurements given on the pattern envelope and the garment measurements given on the pattern, and decided to make a size E. For the trial run I left out all of the pockets, and made a very simple pair of trousers.

Once they were ready to try on, Paul very carefully helped me to stick pins in my backside until I had the perfect fit. I graded down to a size D from the waist to the hips, and then made a sway back adjustment. Perfect! Even the length was just right.

The method for making the fly front seemed rather fiddly, and at times the instructions were a little bit difficult to follow. It does make a lovely neat front though, with much less bulk than you might find on other jeans. I’d definitely use this method again.

The order of construction was also different from other trousers that I’ve made, but this allowed for decorative topstitching on more of the seams. I didn’t add any topstitching on these trousers, apart from on the waistband and fly, but I probably will on the next pair.

The waist is much higher than you’d find on most jeans that are in the shops at the moment, and that’s absolutely fine by me. The back of the waist has a deep triangular yoke rather than a normal waistband, and this makes the fit of the centre back much better than on mass-produced jeans as well.

I have several metres of pinstriped cotton velvet, which I think would be absolutely perfect for this pattern. Topstitched in white, with a silver button, I think they’d be really dramatic. They’d also look great in a stretch denim, or maybe a nice wool tweed.

I’m so happy with this pattern that I may never have to buy a pair of trousers again!

Small Grey Trousers.

Grey trousers

I’ve spent all day working on a pair of trousers.
Unfortunately I have managed to make them a size too small for me.

According to the finished measurements on the pattern, they should be an absolutely perfect fit. Unfortunately this fabric doesn’t have any stretch in it, and whilst I can get the trousers on, I can’t sit down.

Or breathe.

Bother.

The pattern is Vogue 2812, view B, although I left out the horizontal seam half way down the leg, and didn’t bother with the non-functional pockets. Or the belt loops.

They’re made from grey polyester/wool blend suiting (not itchy, machine washable), they have a nice deep waistband, bootcut legs, and no pockets.

The waist sits about an inch below your bellybutton, so they’re not ridiculously low rise, but they’re definitely not bellywarmers either.

I loathe making trousers (well, I hate making the fly front – so fiddly!), but I’m really pleased with these. They’re possibly the nicest trousers that I’ve made so far.

It’s just that they don’t fit.

Damn.

Duplicated trousers?

I was browsing through the Vogue website today, looking for a jacket pattern. I rather like Vogue 8604 – I have a fondness for both cropped jackets and kimono sleeves. The trouser pattern is included, so I popped the pattern on my shopping list. (I only ever buy Vogue pattern when they’re on sale – they’re so expensive otherwise!)

Then I looked at the drawing, and realised that the trousers looked suspiciously similar to a pair I made earlier this year. They’re Vogue 8367, and the more I look at these illustrations the more certain I am that these are the same trousers!

I really like that little jacket… but I don’t really want to pay for a pattern for a pair of trousers that I’ve already made. Perhaps I’ll see whether I can find a similar looking jacket elsewhere.

Hurry up, winter!

I never seem to have a great deal of luck with summer shoes. Every year I buy a pair that look as though they ought to be comfortable, and every year I end up with terrible blisters. I’ve pretty much given up hope of finding a pair of smart shoes that I can wear in summer.

Today I’m suffering from some kind of Dreaded Lurgy (no, not Swine Flu!), so I’m reading a pile of fashion magazines and doing a bit of window shopping on the computer.

I spotted the boots above in the current edition of UK Vogue, and I’ve fallen madly in love. They’re by Solea at Kurt Geiger, and as far as I can tell they’re not actually available to buy yet.

I have just two questions about these little boots:

Do they come in black, and can I afford them?

I suspect the answer to both of those questions is going to be “no”, but in the meantime I’m quite happy imaging how these pretty boots would look with just about everything in my wardrobe.

More Knitting Inspiration

The latest issue of Vogue Knitting (now apparently renamed Designer Knitting) landed on my doormat this morning. On my first glance through, I’ve already spotted two things that I’m dying to knit.

The giant yellow jumper is the Cropped Turtleneck, by Leena Sullivan.
I particularly like the sideways construction with the cables, which is what I’d originally intended to do with the Rowan Colourscape. I’m a huge fan of giant polo necks, and I think I’d be tempted to knit this one even taller. I’m currently knitting a giant moss stitch coat with my mountain of Big Wool, but I think I might have enough left over to make this as well.

The green hooded top is the Green Iiris Cropped Hoodie by Mari Muinonen.
I like hoods, I like cables, I like cropped jumpers… I love it!

I don’t know whether I have enough yarn in my stash to knit this one. I do have some lovely Rowan Cashsoft in Kingfisher, but I’d have to do the cabled sections in a contrasting colour, I think. If I was going to splurge on yet more wool, I think I’d go for Colinette Cadenza in one of their more subtle Dali shades. The one in the picture is Salty Dog.

One thing I particularly like about Vogue Knitting’s website is the new Fashion Preview section. When you click on the picture of each design you’re taken through to a video, where you can see a model actually wearing and moving about in the knitwear. It makes a real difference to know that the bottom of the jumper isn’t going to roll up as soon as the model moves her arms, for instance! You also get a chance to see the piece from all angles, which you don’t see in the magazine itself.

My subscription to Vogue Knitting has just expired, and I’ve been so happy with the launch of The Knitter that I wasn’t going to renew it. Having seen these patterns, and the website support, I think there might be room for both…

Sewing Plans for this Autumn…

One of the perks of working in a fabric shop is that you find out in advance when the pattern companies are just about to have a special offer, or discontinue lots of styles. Now is the time of year when all of the autumn/winter pattern books appear, which means special offers galore!

I have something of a weakness for buying patterns, so I’m trying to be very good and only buy them if I’m absolutely definitely positively going to make them in the near future. I have fabrics in mind (and in my stash!) already for the four patterns below, so I felt justified in picking them up.

My sewing plans for this Autumn...

Top left: McCalls 5591.
I bought this pattern as an alternative to McCalls 5431. The two patterns have many of the same elements – a full skirt, contrast band at the hem and large pockets. McCalls 5591 has the advantage of working with one-way prints on 44″ fabric, which 5431 can’t accommodate. I’m sure that I’ll use both patterns, and I’m hoping to find myself living in these skirts for the rest of the summer. I certainly have plenty of fabrics I can use to make them…

Top right: Vogue 2784 (now out of print)
This is a Donna Karan designer pattern for Vogue. The dress itself is very sheer, and the pattern includes a bias-cut slip to wear underneath it. I have the perfect fabric for this project – a sheer black georgette with little black roses, which was given to me by a friend several years ago. I think it might be interesting to make a few slips in different colours, to change the look and feel of the dress. I plan to wear this one to other people’s weddings.

Bottom left: McCalls 5717
Everyone at work fell in love with this coat pattern as soon as we saw it on the back of the new McCalls catalogue. Naomi’s already bought a length of bright pink tartan, and I plan to make this one in my Waverley flamingo fabric.  The collar and the ruffle at the bottom will be in black velvet, as will the buttons. Then I just need to add a sparkly flamingo brooch to the lapel, and I have a fabulous winter coat!

Bottom right: Vogue 8211 (now out of print)
No, it isn’t the same as McCalls 5717! This one’s going to be a more dressy coat, and I plan to make it from a heavyweight cotton curtaining. It’s cream, with gold bees embroidered on it. I’m not certain how many opportunities I’m going to have to wear a cream evening coat covered in bees, but I’ve had the fabric for a long time, and this is the first pattern I’ve seen that’s really been right for it.

Now I just have to carve out a tiny space in my hectic sewing schedule, and set aside the time to make something for myself!