The Captain Samuel Vimes ‘Boots’ theory of socioeconomic unfairness

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Image © Fairysteps

“The reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money.

Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in Ankh-Morpork on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles.

But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that’d still be keeping his feet dry in ten years’ time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet.

This was the Captain Samuel Vimes ‘Boots’ theory of socioeconomic unfairness.”

Terry Pratchett, Men At Arms

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Image © Conker Shoes

I used to be something of a shoe addict. As a child I had to wear Very Sensible shoes, but the moment I was freed from this tyranny I got myself a job in a shoe shop, and spent all my hard-earned cash (did I tell you about the time a toddler kicked me in the eye?) on buying ALL THE SHOES. This continued into my twenties, when I eventually stopped working in a shoe shop (and being kicked by toddlers, mostly), but carried on buying ALL THE SHOES. By the time I was in my thirties, I lived in a house with a dedicated Shoe Cupboard. I don’t think I ever counted them, but at the height of my shoe obsession I probably had something in the region of fifty pairs. A couple of them were very expensive. Most of them were very cheap, badly made, bought in sales, didn’t really fit properly, and certainly weren’t comfortable. Comfortable shoes were for losers! It was all about having the perfect pair to go with the perfect outfit.

After my first hip operation, I bought a pair of hiking trainers, and a pair of orthotics to go inside them. They were a revelation. I could walk! My back didn’t hurt! But wow, they were ugly. I did get rid of the majority of my ridiculously high-heeled shoes, but all I did was replace one addiction with another. I took to buying second-hand Dr Martens on Ebay, thinking that at least they were flat, and (mostly) comfortable. Soon I had a pair to match every outfit! And then the hip surgery came around again, on the other leg. My physiotherapist told me that Dr Martens, even with orthotics inside them, were the worst possible shoes I could wear. (But surely they were originally designed to be orthopaedic? What the heck?!) They were too stiff, offered insufficient support, and he convinced me to sell the lot. Heartbreaking.

Fairysteps Queenie

Since then, having reached the conclusions that 1) I really like being able to walk, and 2) I don’t really fancy having any more hip surgery until they eventually have to be replaced, I made the decision to buy Only Sensible Shoes. An initial online search turned up mostly horrible ugly orthopaedic-looking things, which was a bit depressing. Thankfully I eventually stumbled upon the wonders that are Fairysteps and Conker Shoes!

Conker Boots

I now have a grand total of fifteen pairs of shoes. A small collection for me, but by my husband’s standards, this is triple the number of shoes a person needs. (He has two pairs of army boots, two pairs of Converse, and a pair of casual Merrells that he never wears.) I’ve been gradually building up my collection until I have enough shoes and boots that will work with with most of my clothes, and the only gap remaining is a pair of summer sandals. I’m saving up, and I’m going to buy a gold and silver pair from Conker, if the weather’s ever warm again.

Once my collection’s complete, I effectively won’t need to buy shoes! Ever again!

Actually, I try not to think about that too much, because it makes me shiver a little bit. But the whole point of Conkers is that they can be completely re-soled once they wear out, and then they’ll be lovely and fresh and new again. They can also fix mistakes! My black and silver brogues were my first pair, and I ordered them one width fitting too tight, and with soles that I don’t find especially comfortable. But, when the time comes to have them repaired, I can have the uppers stretched, and the soles replaced with ones I like – without having to buy a whole new pair of shoes!

Fairysteps Moonshine
(Yes, I wear these to work. People take the mickey every damn time, but I wear them anyway.)

I’m not sure what to do about re-soling the Fairysteps collection – I don’t have a Proper Cobbler in my town any more, and I’m not completely convinced I can trust them to any old glue-a-rubber-heel-on shoe repairer on the high street. That’s a bridge I’m going to need to cross fairly soon, as the ones I wear most often are starting to get a little bit slippery as the treads wear away.

Anyway. What was I waffling on about?

Oh yes, I know.

At the end of the day, all of these shoes are really rather expensive.

Like Captain Vimes, I can’t afford them. The boots at the top were bought for me as a joint Christmas gift by my husband, parents and sister, and I chipped in a bit towards them too. But, I think they’re worth the money.

Each pair of these shoes and boots was made individually, by hand, by a single person. (Or a small team, in Conker’s case.) No factory, no thousands of identical pairs being pumped out only to end up in landfill when fashions change, so the impact on the planet in terms of both production and waste is much, much lower. And because they can be repaired, only the worn-out sole needs to be disposed of rather than the entire shoe, meaning less waste again.

The black & silver brogues were a colour combination that I chose, and Conker put together for me. I have a pair of Fairysteps boots that are turquoise with little brown birds on them, which are absolutely unique. Conker don’t make their derby boots with a brogue toecap – but when I emailed to ask them whether it was possible, they said yes. They also read my blog, spotted that my black & silver shoes were too tight, and recommended a wider fit when I bought the boots – a year later. How’s that for customer service?!

So yes, it can be very hard to reconcile spending a lot of money on a pair of shoes. Especially when you don’t have a great deal of money to spend in the first place. (Which, as someone who works part time, I definitely don’t!) But when you look at how long these boots are going to last, the kind of customer service that comes with them, and the greatly reduced impact on the planet thanks to opting out of mass production, the decision (to me, at least) seems a great deal easier.

Shiny New Conkers!

Conker Boots

I don’t think I told you, back in January, about my glorious pink Conker boots? Here they are, having been worn for the past six months, and they really are the most comfortable pair of boots I’ve ever owned!

I ordered them in November, having seen a photo of a pair of magenta ripley (a very soft leather) boots on Conker’s Facebook page. Being in love with my Conker brogue shoes, I asked whether I could have brogue toecaps added to a pair of boots. The answer turned out to be yes… but not in the ripley leather, as it’s too thick. So the lovely team at Conker sent me three little circles of pink leather in the post, so I could choose which one I wanted for the toe cap. I went for a slightly waxy leather, but one that I’d be able to polish when they inevitably got a bit scuffed. Although I have to say that, six months in, they’re looking pretty good!

I knew I wanted a plain black pair pretty much the same as the pink ones, it was just a question of saving up enough pennies to pay for them. Just as I was beginning to wonder about the wisdom of spending such a lot of money on a pair of plain black boots, and half contemplating a return to Doc Martens, I spotted a gorgeous pair of black shoes with white stitching (again on Conker’s Facebook page) which gave me an idea.

Conker Boots

Dear lovely people at Conker, please don’t cry when you see this picture!

You see, I didn’t really want white stitching at all. I wanted pink. So the moment my boots arrived, even before I’d tried them on, I set about colouring in the white stitching with a pink Sharpie. As you do.

Conker Boots

I know that the stitching will eventually get dirty, and as I polish the boots it will eventually turn black. But for now, while they’re new, I have the simple pleasure of knowing that nobody else has a pair of boots exactly like these.

Perfect!

I’m also really pleased that all of my shoes (with the exception of trainers and waterproofs) are now made by hand, in the UK. So much better than all those mass-produced uncomfortable shoes I used to collect!

Stripy Boots

Stripy Boots

Ta-daa!

This pair isn’t wearable outside, mostly because I made an error in the construction (I am clumsy, and accidentally snipped a little hole in the outer fabric), so I sewed felt slipper-soles onto the bottom. Annoyingly, this took longer than it would have done to glue the rubber soles on, but it meant that I could try them on and walk about in them for a bit, at least inside the house.

There are some little adjustments I want to make to the pattern, but this is fundamentally it.

I’m waiting for drawings-of-feet from a couple of willing prototype testers, so I’ll be able to show you some different versions of these as I make them. I’m looking forward to the peacock-coloured silk pair that have been requested!

Prototype Boots: Take Two

Muslin Boots 2

I made another little boot prototype, sort of idly based on the construction of Converse, but developed from my existing shoe pattern. The black stitching lines are the seam allowances, so they’ll be a little more cut-away than they appear.

I need to make the curves more shallow, as they’ve come out a bit right-angled on this little boot, but I think the style might just work.

Muslin Boot

Muslin Boots

I’ve been thinking about making boots for a little while. I finally decided to stop thinking, start sewing, and see what happened. Some minor tweaks are needed (the uppers don’t fit properly to the insoles for a start), but here is the beginning of some little boots. I have plans for more of a pull-on pixie-style thing as well, but haven’t quite got my brain around those yet.

I have terrible spacial awareness, which makes imagining objects in three dimensions very difficult for me. I have to build them, and see what happens. I am terrible at pattern drafting for exactly this reason. Also, small children can beat me at Tetris.

If I can get this pattern right, and make sure that the construction isn’t deathly complicated and time-consuming, I should be able to make these in lots of different heights without too much difficulty. She says, optimistically.

Fairysteps Mustardseed Boots


Image © Fairysteps

These little beauties are a pair of custom made Mustardseed boots, handmade by Fairysteps.

I’ve been reading the Fairysteps blog for quite a while now, and every time Ren posts a new pair of shoes I have to keep my fingers crossed that they’re not in my size in order to prevent my bank manager from crying.

To see these boots in all sort of different colourways, you could look at Fairysteps on Flickr… or you could go and visit the Fairysteps Etsy store, and find out what’s in stock in your size!

For those who prefer not to wear leather, there’s a range of vegan shoes in four colours of Lorica suable material.

If the pointy toes aren’t your style (and whyever not?), there are also a gorgeous range of round-toed pumps with bows or ankle straps or flowers or buttons. And if that’s not enough, there are matching bags and little purses in every colour.

Do you think it would be excessive to have one of each?

Conker Shoes

While we were in Totnes, I went to do a little window-shopping. For handmade shoes.

We didn’t find Green Shoes (because it turns out that their workshop’s not actually in Totnes but just outside), but we did find Conker. I tried on a couple of different styles to find out what size I need in Conker shoes (6E), but I couldn’t afford to buy anything. But now I know what size I need I can safely order shoes from the internet, the next time I have enough money in my Shoe Fund.

I also learned that 6E and 6F are the same width but the F has more instep space, which is a very useful thing to know when you have a high instep and wear orthotics.

The round toes and the crepe soles made these little boots (I tried on a lovely nut-brown pair) incredibly light and comfortable. I’ve been coveting these shoes via the internet for years, but now I’ve actually had them on my feet I want a pair (okay, several pairs) more than ever!

Clarks & Laura Ashley Desert Boots

Every now and then I have a little look at Clarks Originals, to see what this year’s desert boots are like. (I last wrote about them in 2009.) I may have fallen a little bit in love with this super-girly pink floral Laura Ashley pair. Could they be any more cute?

There’s also a men’s desert boot collaboration with Pretty Green, Liam Gallagher’s clothing line. They have a rounder toe and lower profile heel, which I wouldn’t have thought was possible in a desert boot, but apparently it is!

I’d been hoping to learn to make desert boots, but unfortunately for me the London College of Fashion have discontinued their course. I am saving for a place on their Footwear Summer School, a five-week intensive shoemaking course, but I don’t know whether I’ll be able to afford it this year. I’ll have to wait and see.

While I was looking around the internet for articles on how to make your own boots (as you do), I came across this interesting piece from Gentleman’s Corner on the history of the desert boot.

Women’s Land Army boot

Women's Land Army boots, at MERL

The Museum of English Rural Life have an exhibition on at the moment called Land Ladies: women and farming in England, 1900-1954. It’s on until April 19th.

The boots above were issued by the Women’s Land Army, and they belonged to Doreen Thorpe who served in Hertfordshire, Middlesex, Derbyshire and Yorkshire.

I’m impressed that they’ve survived completely unworn, not least because it means that we can see all the details on the stitched and hobnailed soles. I particularly like the horseshoe heels which I hadn’t seen before.

Rochester Rafael

Jeffery~West have done it again.

I only went to their website to see whether there was anything left in the sale that was a) in my size and b) purple. (Sadly not, on both counts.) And then I thought I’d just have a little look to see whether there was anything new… which is when I saw these.

The boots above are their Rochester Rafael style which I know my bad-influence-friend Patrick has been coveting for ages. They’re black patent leather with red “blood splatters”.

And now there is an internet-only limited edition version of the Rochester Rafael, in ten glorious new colours! I have to confess to being extraordinarily tempted by a gold pair, or maybe the metallic red ones.

Top row: Gold leather, Sliced black & red leather, Black & silver leather, Black patent with white splatters, Black leather with faint red glitter.
Bottom row: Red crocodile-effect leather, Dark green leather, Red metallic leather, Dark blue leather, Metallic blue leather.
All available online from Jeffery~West.