Wardrobe Analysis – Part Two

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Look at that! Progress is being made! No longer a mountainous heap, but nice tidy stacks, all colour-co-ordinated. At the top there you can see a Dylon colour chart. Once I’d sorted everything out according to which tops went with which colour of chinos, it was very easy to see where the gaps were. Dyeing the pale blue trousers dark grey will mean they go with almost all of my existing tops, and stand a lot more chance of actually being worn! And dyeing the beige pair dark brown means I can throw out an ancient pair of cord trousers that my sister gave to me years ago. I bought the dye this morning, along with a (hopefully nice) “Rosewood Red” packet. I’ll use that to dye my cream yoga pants (which also never get worn), and a t-shirt to go with the new brown trousers. The boxes of dye cost about £6 each, and whilst it does feel a bit weird to completely alter two pairs of brand new trousers (I usually only over-dye worn out jeans), it’ll make a huge difference to my wardrobe.

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The wardrobe, which now looks like this! Well, almost like this. I did a bit of a swap, and all of Paul’s t-shirts are all now on plastic hangers, so I could put all of my clothes on wooden ones. I think they’re much nicer and Paul doesn’t care, so that worked out nicely!

The top rail is now organised by colour. Each pair of chinos is accompanied by its matching shirts and t-shirts on those multiple-hanger-thingybobs. They keep each group together and save so much space in the wardrobe, so that’s a win-win! The bottom rail has all of my “neutral” tops – black, white and grey shirts, t-shirts and all those H&M jumpers.

On the right, the top two cubbyholes are things I don’t wear for work. T-shirts with cartoons on them, and jumpers that are comfortable rather than smart. The cubbyhole with all the extra space in it is for yoga pants and leggings. That’s a section that needs adding to, I think.

And in the bottom square, jumpers that I can wear for work, including two chunky cardigans that I was going to unravel because they didn’t go with anything. (The green one, and the pink & orange.) I’m very glad I didn’t take them apart now! That section actually needs adding to as well. The sooner I can finish knitting my yellow cardigan the better – it turns out to go with almost all of the trousers, which is quite exciting as I would never have considered yellow to be a neutral colour before! I also have a bag full of grey wool, and some lovely Rowan Colourscape that should go with several pairs of trousers as well.

Of course, this is only half of my wardrobe… the non-work section’s going to be a different challenge, I think.

Oh, and I should also mention, the thing that got me started on all of this (aside of being incapable of making a decision at seven o’clock in the morning) was reading Coletterie’s Wardrobe Architect series. It’s a little more in depth than I needed, but it’s an interesting read, and should be a real help to anybody else who’s struggling with what to wear!

Wardrobe Analysis – Part One

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This frankly ridiculous pile of STUFF is the entire contents of my wardrobe.

(Well, except for the formal dresses for choir concerts. And the costumes. And the sports kit. And the pyjamas. And the band t-shirts that are too ancient to wear but must never be thrown away. Apart from that, it’s everything.)

I’ve been struggling with insomnia again, which means that today is one of those days where I can’t be trusted with a sewing machine, and I’m too frazzled to think about my Aromatherapy homework. So, given my recent smart-versus-casual crisis, I thought I’d take the opportunity to have a really in-depth look at all of my clothes and see what’s going on.

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Armed with a pen and paper, and then with Excel, I ended up with this inventory. (No, you’re not supposed to be able to read it. Yes, I do have seven pairs of bloomers. Shush.)

Everything with a white background is an item that I’ve made myself, or that my Mum has knitted for me. Everything in grey is something that came from a high street store, before I stopped buying my clothes that way. Everything in green is something that I bought from a store, but is either organic or ethically produced. The yellow items are second-hand. It surprised me that there were so few of those, as I used to buy a lot of things from charity shops!

To be honest, the proportion of things-made versus things-bought is actually better than I expected it to be. But, you can see that there are a few key areas where I need to make some quite drastic improvements. A few years ago a number of the jumpers that my Mum had knitted for me (way back in the 1990s!) sadly reached the end of their useful life. I still needed something to wear for work, and I know I’m a slow knitter, so I bought half a dozen “emergency” cotton jumpers from H&M.

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I know I bought them long before the appalling accident at the Bangladesh factory where all of these jumpers were probably made. But seeing these labels in my wardrobe, and knowing that my money went straight into the profits of a company who value their worldwide workers so little, makes me feel more than a little bit sick.

The worst of it is, I haven’t even stopped shopping there! I don’t buy things for myself any more, but their children’s clothes are so lovely, and so affordable, and they have such pretty little things for my niece… but I’m going to have to stop that. I’m not a very militant campaigner, but I do what I can with the little money I have, and I can definitely stop doing this.

There’s no point in sending these things straight down to the nearest charity shop though, even if I do feel bad every time I look at those labels. The jumpers in question are actually some of the most-worn items in my wardrobe, and I haven’t even started knitting a plain black jumper and cardigan to replace them. So they can stay for now, as a reminder that I can, and must, do better when I buy.

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These three pieces are waiting to be finished or altered before they can go into the wardrobe. The yellow blouse needs the hem and side slits finishing, and the buttons and buttonholes. The blue dress (covered in BEES!) needs the front placket sorting out, and the buttons and buttonholes. The broderie anglais dress came out looking too much like a nightie, so that’s awaiting the fate of being chopped in half and turned into a pretty layering tunic for the summer.

I was surprised there were so few unfinished pieces, to be honest, given how easily I get distracted. The blue dress has only been waiting for its buttons since, ooh, last May, or maybe June.

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Now my next problem (aside from how I’m going to get into bed tonight, if all my clothes are on the bedroom floor!) is how on earth to decide what I should keep, what I should take to a charity shop, and what gaps I need to fill in order to have Actual Outfits rather than just All The Clothes.

I’m going to start with all of my brightly-coloured trousers, I think. I do have organic cotton long-sleeved t-shirts to go with almost all of them now, although there are a couple of pairs I’m thinking about dyeing a different colour. Pale blue? Beige? They’re going to be ruined in three seconds flat! And my cream yoga pants are virtually unworn, for the same reason, so I might as well dye those too. If I can match them up with tops I have already, so much the better!

But hopefully, by the end of this process, I’ll have a much clearer idea of what I can wear on a daily basis, without looking into my over-stuffed wardrobe, having a great big panic, and pulling on the same old jeans and t-shirt because they don’t need thinking about.

(Although, having said all of this, the temptation to follow the example of Matilda Kahl and just buy multiples of the same outfit is currently extremely tempting!)

Back to the fabric stash

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So, I’ve been writing recently about mindful consumption and buying handmade shoes. A few years ago I wrote about Value versus Cost, and sneaked inside a post on vintage sewing patterns, I wrote a mini essay about ethically-produced jeans.

I’m trying very hard to be as responsible in my own shopping as I possibly can. My trousers are ethically produced. My yoga pants are organic cotton. My shoes are handmade. I try, as much as possible, not to support mass production in terms of clothing.

But, like everyone, sometimes I fail. I got very, very excited about these Yellow Submarine Vans, so I “treated myself” and bought them. (Ten months later, they’re sitting on my shoe rack having been worn only about half a dozen times because they don’t fit right and they’re not comfortable, so there’s a lesson for me!)

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Shortly after I’d bought them I got very excited about some almost-matching fabric, so I “treated myself” to that too. It’s cotton, but it’s not organic, and I had it sent over from America. I’m currently sewing it into a shirt that I can wear with the Vans. (Hopefully the shirt will actually fit, at least!)

I’m always a sucker for a novelty print, and in fact I’m currently waiting for the arrival of a parcel containing a shirt’s worth of this Lorax-print fabric. It’s coming all the way from America again, and at least it’s organic cotton this time. But while I was shopping I popped in a couple of other half-yards “for Milly”, and “to make the shipping costs worthwhile”.

That’s when I realised that I was basically making excuses to myself, to justify the purchase of cute things that I liked the look of, rather than thinking about what I actually needed, or how it was made.

Bishopston fabrics - straight out of the box

Given that I still have metres and metres of this lovely handwoven organic cotton sitting in my sewing room (bought all the way back in 2008, before Bishopston Trading closed down), I really have absolutely no excuse for buying any more fabric right now. Okay, so plain colours of cotton are not as fun and exciting as hilarious novelty prints. (And you know I do like a certain amount of my wardrobe to be hilarious!) But I can make up for that by printing simple designs myself… over-dyeing the fabrics… adding embroidery or lace… wearing lots of jewellery or knitted accessories… or just enjoying the nature of the hand-woven, hand-dyed material.

After that it’s time to go on a different kind of shopping spree I think – doing some research into what lovely new ethically-produced fabrics have become available since the last time I looked. Now that does sound exciting!

Vintage Pattern Round-Up

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For a while now I’ve been buying a vintage sewing pattern each month, with a view to expanding my wardrobe into the realms of Things I Actually Want To Wear, rather than Things I Wanted To Sew. Apparently those two things are not the same, and it’s resulted in a very full wardrobe, and Nothing To Wear.

I made one of these to wear to the Vintage Night at work, and I’ve actually worn it rather a lot over the summer. Lightweight, cool, smart for work or all the parties that I never go to – I love this one, and have fabric set aside for another. It simply screams NOVELTY PRINT at me, and I have a huge list of fabrics that I want to buy from eQuilter, once I’ve saved up enough to pay the customs fees. (Bonus: their Lorax prints are all on organic cotton!)

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During my adventures in Me-Made May, I discovered that the key to making these dresses look properly smart is having the appropriate underwear to go with them. As the fibromyalgia simply won’t allow me to wear 1950s-style girdles on a daily basis (nor will my budget, sadly!), I thought this bra slip would be a good alternative. Fitted at the top, but not too constricting around the waist. Making it myself also means that I can choose fabrics such as cotton or silk, which will be much kinder to my skin than the expected nylon and polyester knits. This one will require a shopping spree to acquire the right fabrics before I can start, although I probably have enough powernet left over from my Structured Lingerie course to make a prototype first.

1960s Simplicity 5890

This lovely pattern, very sadly, didn’t work out. I used the blouse pattern with the last of the My Little Pony fabric, and it just didn’t fit me right, so it’s now sitting in the Etsy shop waiting to find a good home. I did make the dress, in a nice grey suiting, but when I tried it on to check the fit… it was awful. A perfectly nice outfit (I made the gored skirt version), just really not for me. It looked very uniform-ish… which it’s supposed to, I guess. It’s a smart working-woman’s outfit. It’s just that apparently I am not a smart working woman! Thankfully, at the Museum, I don’t have to be. The dress code is “smart-casual”, so there is absolutely no requirement for me to turn up in a blouse and a pinafore dress if I don’t want to. Phew.

Monkee Genes Slim Fit Chinos

A few months ago I did decide that I should probably head slightly towards the smarter end of the smart-casual spectrum, especially as I’m the first person that most visitors to the Museum see when they come in. To that end, it was time for my too-small and rather frayed old jeans to be retired – which meant new jeans. I could have sewn them myself, but I don’t much like sewing trousers or heavy fabrics, so I decided to go shopping. I’m very determined that everything I buy should (as far as possible) be handmade, organic, or at the very least ethically produced, and with jeans this is easier said than done. Eventually I’d saved up £130 to treat myself to two pairs of Monkee Genes. However, they’re described as “slim fit”, which I’m most definitely not, so I wanted to try them on before I spent my money. I discovered that my local branch of Sports Direct (a shop I’d never normally venture into!) was a stockist, so I wandered in and discovered two things. One: Monkee Genes Slim Fit Chinos were my perfect trousers, and Two: they were in the sale. For £8-£10 per pair. Not £65 each. (In fact, the last few pairs of these chinos are currently on the Sports Direct website for SIX POUNDS A PAIR!!)

So, I did what any sensible person would do – I bought every pair in the shop in my size, then came home and bought every pair on the Sports Direct website, until I found myself with NINE PAIRS of ridiculously-coloured organic cotton chinos, for less than the price of the two pairs of jeans I’d originally intended to buy. I’d say “oops”, but do you know what? I’d budgeted the money for this purpose, I spent less than I’d planned, and given that my last two pairs of jeans saw me through five years of wear, I can’t imagine myself needing to buy trousers again for a very long time! These chinos fit well, they’re very comfortable, they’re organic cotton, and they’re ethically produced. Perfect!

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Of course, what I need now, is shirts to go with them. I’d thought that Simplicity 5890 would be the solution, but for work the neckline was too low, and I just didn’t like the fit of the resulting blouse. So, I decided to use the top half of this pattern to make a smart short-sleeved shirt. Unfortunately I had a bit of a maths error, resulting in a blouse that was a bit too tight across the shoulders, and a lot too tight around the hips. Back to the drawing board. (I’ve since added the skirt from Advance 8065, to turn it into a dress. That’s now sitting on my pile of Things Awaiting Buttons.)

1970s Butterick 4376

I’ve spent a LOT of time on Etsy and Ebay, searching for the perfect 1950s or 1960s raglan-sleeved shirt pattern. The raglan sleeve thing is important, as it not only suits my very rounded shoulders, but also allows a much greater range of movement than a normal set-in sleeve. (This is one reason why I don’t wear my beautiful T.M. Lewin shirts as much as I’d expected – I always feel as though I can’t lift my arms.) I did find some lovely patterns, but never in my size, and after one failed shirt incident I lost my nerve at the thought of trying to draft one from scratch. So, I broadened my search to include 1970s patterns, which is when I spotted this.

Granted, it’s not a button-through shirt, which is what I was originally looking for. But, it has raglan sleeves, it’s styled with layers, which I like, as a dress it has the all-important pockets, and I can just imagine it as either a tunic length worn over the top of all of my ridiculous trousers, or as a blouse length that I can wear tucked in. I have to admit that I was also sucked in by the promise of “Fast and Easy”, but on reading the instructions it turns out that the way to keep this a fast make is by simply not bothering to finish the inside! So perhaps I won’t go for that approach after all. Slow and Easy’s far more my style.