The Story of Stuff.

“From its extraction through sale, use and disposal, all the stuff in our lives affects communities at home and abroad, yet most of this is hidden from view. The Story of Stuff is a 20-minute, fast-paced, fact-filled look at the underside of our production and consumption patterns. The Story of Stuff exposes the connections between a huge number of environmental and social issues, and calls us together to create a more sustainable and just world. It’ll teach you something, it’ll make you laugh, and it just may change the way you look at all the stuff in your life forever.”

This is why I do what I do.

Please watch the video, and pass on the link.

Thank you.

The Story of Stuff

Have you heard of the Handmade Pledge?

At handmade.org, you can sign a pledge to buy handmade gifts this Holiday season. Why limit it to the holidays, I say? A handmade gift is for Life, not just for Christmas!

The idea is that even if you can’t give a gift that you made with your own hands, then why not buy an item which another craftsperson has made? That way you are supporting independent businesses, and bringing down the mass-produced madness of the holidays, one little gift at a time.

I must confess that I have bought quite a number of non-handmade gifts for my friends and family this Christmas. Why? Because that’s what they wanted. I don’t see the point in giving somebody a handknitted lacy poncho, when what they really wanted was the DVD box set of their favourite tv show or the latest blockbuster novel. Books, music and films will always be good gifts, for those that enjoy them. However, a number of my friends are also craftspeople, and they will be receiving not only handmade gifts, but also items which will enable them to go on and make more handmade items of their own.

If you don’t know what your friends-and-relations would like as a gift, then handmade.org gives you plenty of resources for places to look for ideas. There are online hubs such as Etsy, and there are local craft markets springing up all over the place at this time of year.

Don’t want to give the person who owns everything even more clutter to add to their lives? Buy them something which can be eaten, or used up. What about fudge, or soap? How about a ticket to an event, or some seeds for the garden? A “voucher” for a day of your time? A gift certificate towards something they really want, but can’t afford?

If you’re giving a gift to the person who really does have everything, then how about giving a gift on their behalf, to people who have nothing? Charities such as Oxfam Unwrapped and Christian Aid have amazing gift catalogues, where you can buy all sorts of items from seeds and goats to school equipment, condoms to help prevent the spread of HIV and AIDS, and even a whole toilet!

Whether you buy handmade or mass-produced, whether you give a gift to your family or to charity, please take a moment to think about that person, and what they might like.

I’ve spent a lot of Christmasses working in retail establishments, and there’s nothing more soul-destroying than the last-minute purchase of utter rubbish, clearly thrown together solely for the purpose of giving desperate shoppers something to buy on Christmas Eve. Except perhaps for the Boxing Day crowds, coming back to sheepishly return all of their unwanted gifts. If people didn’t buy musical santas and light-up reindeer, eventually companies would get the point, and stop manufacturing such nonsense!

Don’t give in to the madness! Shop early, shop thoughtfully, and please buy handmade if it’s what’s right for you.

Four vintage patterns…

Look at what my Mum found, when she was clearing out some things from my Grandma’s house!

None of the envelopes have dates on them, but the style of the illustrations and the style of the clothes suggests late 1950s/early 1960s.

Even better – they’re in a size which I can modify to actually fit me! They’re sizes 18 and 20, which translates roughly to a modern size 14 and 16.

Four vintage patterns

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The dress that I’m most likely to make and wear is (surprise!) the Maudella a-line shift dress. I might leave out the hanging fabric for daily wear, but I do love the contrasting circles.

In fact, I might even take that envelope with me the next time I go to the hairdresser. I love everything about that outfit.

Oh dear, I am now fighting a terrible urge to make this dress from camouflage fabric, with elephants peeping through the holes! I’ve almost certainly got enough fabric left over from the elephant dress to do that…

The Way We Wore.

I’m reading the most fantastic book at the moment – The Way We Wore, by Robert Elms. It’s about one man, and the importance of his clothes as he grows up. It’s a social history, and a sartorial autobiography.

Robert Elms is half a generation older than me, so some of the earlier parts of the book are quite difficult to understand, although I can still picture a lot of the clothes very precisely, thanks to seeing the few old photos of my Dad as a teenager, and having been pretty obsessed with the 1960s when I was a teenager myself. The 1970s seem to have been just as confusing for Elms as they were for me, although I was far too young to be thinking about clothes at that time.

It was the 1980s that really did it for me. I was eight years old in 1981, the year that Philip Oakey of the Human League appeared on Top of the Pops with eyeliner, earrings and a pierced nipple. I’m absolutely certain that I noticed none of these things at the time, and was quite shocked when I saw that footage again recently and worked out how young I must have been when I saw it first. The 1980s were for New Romantics and Soft Cell and Nick Rhodes – always Nick Rhodes – never Simon Le Bon or Roger Taylor. Nick Rhodes, always Nick Rhodes, because he was the one with the feathered hair and the eyeliner. No wonder I ended up as a goth. I’d been looking for men in make-up since I was eight years old.

Of course I was far too young to be a goth or a New Romantic at the age of eight, or even really to know what those things meant. I do remember having a Madonna phase, all leggings and hair bows, although it was never as pronounced as my sister’s, who had the lacy gloves and everything. I had braces and a too-big trilby with a turquoise band, purchased from Top Man. I can’t remember now what I attached the braces to. It can’t have been leggings, although my wardrobe was full of those, and I never had a pair of jeans so tight that they had to have a zip at the ankle or you couldn’t get your feet through. My friend Kerry broke her wrist getting into a pair.

I remember the braces and the trilby, and the elasticated belts like a nurse, with a butterfly for the buckle. I remember a neon yellow skirt, worn with the most atrocious haircut on my fourteenth birthday. I remember going all the way to Tammy Girl in Hanley, and longing for the day when my skinny frame would be old enough to fit into grown-up Etam clothes instead. I remember my beloved Falmer Kittens. Jeans with a brand name, instead of from the catalogue! Jeans in a size nine! Jeans with tiny little dots woven directly into the fabric. I loved those jeans, and I wore them until they fell apart, and because ripped denim had become fashionable by then I wore them for a bit longer. I wore them with my favourite shirt, which did come from the catalogue, and it was plain white stiff heavy cotton, with black embroidery down the placket front. Perhaps I also wore the braces, and probably an old waistcoat from a charity shop, covered in badges. I’ve never owned a shirt of such good quality since. I wore it to parties and when it got older I wore it to college. I wore it with skirts and braces and hats. (Probably not all at once, but then it was the 1980s. It’s hard to be sure.)

And shoes. Let’s not even get started on the subject of shoes. Confined to orthopaedic lace-ups during the early years, I remember very clearly being allowed my first pair of tan sandals for the summer, aged about nine. I went outside to play in them, and promptly ruined them by getting covered in tar. That summer was so hot that the road had melted, and my brand new sandals were spoiled.

This was written as a stream of consciousness this morning. (Hence the over-long sentences and too many commas.) I’m sure it’s hugely out of order chronologically, but I was just writing down odd things as they occurred to me. I didn’t even mention the giant black and blue stripy jumper, or the lace-up tan stiletto heels, or the grey pixie boots, or the haircut that made me look like a boy, or my first pair of Doc Martens, which made my Mum laugh because they looked so much like the orthopaedic shoes I’d spent so long rebelling against. I’m sure you’ll get to hear about that some other time…

Rest In Peace, Isabella Blow.

Isabella Blow died on May 8th 2007, from ovarian cancer. She was only 48.
It is rumoured that she took her own life.

She was Philip Treacy’s muse and mentor, and is credited with beginning and supporting the careers of Sophie Dahl and Alexander McQueen.

Blow dressed in a way which suggested that she was never afraid of what anybody might think of her, and she always looked absolutely stunning. One of the joys of reading Vogue, and flicking through magazines like OK and Hello, was looking to see what she had been wearing to the latest parties and events.

Isabella Blow was one of my role models, and I am very sad that she’s gone.

I’m Not a Plastic Bag.

Chloe is my new hero.

Were any of you daft enough to queue outside Sainsbury’s for an Anya Hindmarch “I’m not a plastic bag”? Or worse, to buy one for a ridiculous price on Ebay?

Yes, in some ways it’s a good idea. The most influential handbag designer of the moment jumps on the green bandwagon. That can’t be doing her profits any harm. Or Sainsbury’s. It brings the issue of recycling and re-using and landfill to the public’s attention. But I would like to bet that these Anya Hindmarch bags won’t be used by people who actually care about not using carrier bags for their shopping. They’ll be used mostly by fashion victims as a handbag, while they continue to drive their groceries home in the car, in ordinary carrier bags, as per usual.

The bag itself was made in China, and shipped over to the UK. It will also shortly begin another production run to be shipped over the the US. Hardly a low carbon footprint or an ethically sound manufacturing option! It’s made from “unbleached” cotton, but nowhere does it say whether the cotton is actually organic, or fairly-traded.

Maybe that’s asking too much from one small bag, but why should it be? There is no excuse for designers, especially designers who are jumping on the “green” bandwagon, not to be using cotton which is either fairly-traded or organic, and preferably both. Yes, organic cotton is more expensive, because the yields are lower. Gradually, as the earth recovers from being doused in pesticides for decades, this will change. Yes, Fair Trade cotton is more expensive because, shockingly, you have to actually pay the farmers for growing it for you.

A number of high street stores are now selling “green” clothing ranges, although it’s quite difficult to find out what criteria they’re using to make this claim. M&S has a range of t-shirts, Asda has similar, and even Primark are somehow producing the cheapest “green” clothing around. I’m happy to see this kind of thing filtering down to the high street, even if I am suspicious of how Primark can produce so much, so cheaply.

At the moment I simply can’t afford to buy organic and fairly-traded cotton to make my clothes, although it’s something that I’ve been looking into for a couple of years. This is why I’m currently taking the recycling route, and trying to make something new out of something which would otherwise have been thrown away.

How long do you think it will be before the fashion victims get bored of the “I’m not a plastic bag”, and simply throw it away in favour of the next most fashionable thing? Still, if they all end up on Ebay, at least they’re being recycled…