A brand new summer hat

A straw cloche hat with orange and red ribbons made into the shape of a pansy. Made by Mind Your Bonce Millinery
My new straw cloche hat

I wrote recently about needing a new hat for the summer.

I needed it to be soft, to have a wide brim, and to be suitable for folding up into my rucksack so I don’t have to carry it about with me all day. 

This hat is none of those things. 

But I spotted it on Instagram, and immediately fell in love. 

It’s made by Karen of Mind Your Bonce Millinery, and it’s upcycled from a previous incarnation of straw hat. I ordered it on a Thursday afternoon, it arrived on the Monday, and it fits absolutely perfectly. What more could I have asked for?

I’ve recently bought some wide-legged linen trousers (which turned out to be a saga and a half, let me tell you!), so I reckon I could rock a late 1920s/early 1930s summer style without looking as though I’m on my way to a fancy dress party.

I just need to fold a tote bag into the bottom of my rucksack, so I can pop the hat inside it when need to. The hat is very sturdy (more so than I expected from straw, actually), so I think it will cope with being carried about when it isn’t on my head. Although, to be honest, I think it’s going to be on my head whether it’s sunny outside or not.

Thank you Karen – I love my new hat!

Llamas and dinos and bees, oh my!

Silly Panda re-usable cloth menstrual pads
Silly Panda re-usable cloth menstrual pads

Look what’s just arrived from Silly Panda

This is a set of five cloth sanitary pads. I’m so glad I chose the “random” fabric selection, because look at these hilarious beauties! The first two (left to right) have llamas, the yellow one is the cutest dinosaur ice creams, the pale blue has bees, and just look at those gorgeous geometric rainclouds. Well worth the wait! 

(Silly Panda’s production time is around 8-12 weeks, so if you’re in a hurry, choose something that’s already in stock. That’ll be with you in a few days.)

I’ve been meaning to get around to trying out re-usable sanitary protection for the longest time. Because of my endometriosis I used to have extremely heavy periods, and going through an entire pack of night-time pads every single day was not good for either me or the environment, as they all ended up in the bin. I shudder to think how many disposable pads I’ve chucked away in my 32-year (so far) history of heavy periods, and every single one of them is still sitting in a landfill site somewhere, taking hundreds and hundreds of years to biodegrade. 

I did try out a menstrual cup – a Mooncup, although there are lots of other kinds available now – but because of the particular placement of my endometriosis, it didn’t work out for me. (Although, incidentally, because the Mooncup has millilitres marked on it, I was able to go to my doctor and say “this is exactly how much blood I’m losing every day”, which finally galvanised her into helping me to do something about it, so that alone was extremely useful!) 

Fast forward about ten years, and I have no idea why it’s taken me so long to get around to making the switch to re-usable pads! There are loads of different brands to choose from, many of them made by fellow individuals running tiny businesses, and they come in all sorts of different shapes, sizes, materials and absorbencies. They might seem expensive when you look at the initial outlay, but once you’ve built up enough of a collection to last through the duration of your period… that’s it! You don’t need to buy any more. 

In terms of washing, I just rinse them out in cold water, then hand wash them in hot-and-soapy water, rinse the soap out, and bung them over the bathroom radiator (or hang them in the garden in the summer) to dry. Really, it only takes a minute or two longer than washing your hands. When my period’s over, I’ll give the whole lot a run though the washing machine – usually on a hot wash with the bath towels – before I put them away. Easy peasy! I do work from home, so I don’t often have to deal with changing them while I’m out and about, but most makers also offer “wet bags” that you can safely pop your used pads into until you get to a place where you can wash them. 

As for comfort and practicality… again, I really like them! The ones I’ve chosen are pretty big at 10.5″ long (about the same as a super or night-time pad), but you can choose much smaller ones if you prefer. They’re very comfortable because the fabric is soft and breathable and not plasticky. The wings pop safely around your underwear, and can’t peel off and stick themselves to your damn leg and annoy you all day. Even without an adhesive strip to hold them in place, I haven’t found them to move around at all. I’ll admit I haven’t tried cycling in them, but they have survived several hours of dashing around a sports hall wielding a sword (as you do), so I imagine they’d be good for most activities! 

In short: I’m really, really pleased with re-usable cloth pads, and as soon as I’ve got enough to last through my entire period there’ll be no going back to disposable ones.

Achievement Unlocked: Organic Cotton Overlocker Thread

organic cotton overlocker thread
organic cotton overlocker thread

My white overlocker thread won’t last much longer, so it’s time to level up!

This is my current polyester thread, a bargain at £6.68 for 4x5000m cones. I’ve just ordered ORGANIC COTTON OVERLOCKER THREAD (*insert choirs of angels and heavenly trumpets*) from the Organic Textile Company. It may have cost me a somewhat eye-watering £79.80 for the same 4x5000m cones, but I think it’s well worth it for the upgrade of having every single part of my dresses made with organic cotton. 

The four new cones will last me for several years, so on a per-dress basis it actually only costs a few pence more. I’m not far off making the dresses entirely organic now – a little bit more stash fabric to use up, and then I just have to wait for my black overlocker thread to run out so I can replace that with organic cotton too!

Wardrobe Analysis – Part Two

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Look at that! Progress is being made! No longer a mountainous heap, but nice tidy stacks, all colour-co-ordinated. At the top there you can see a Dylon colour chart. Once I’d sorted everything out according to which tops went with which colour of chinos, it was very easy to see where the gaps were. Dyeing the pale blue trousers dark grey will mean they go with almost all of my existing tops, and stand a lot more chance of actually being worn! And dyeing the beige pair dark brown means I can throw out an ancient pair of cord trousers that my sister gave to me years ago. I bought the dye this morning, along with a (hopefully nice) “Rosewood Red” packet. I’ll use that to dye my cream yoga pants (which also never get worn), and a t-shirt to go with the new brown trousers. The boxes of dye cost about £6 each, and whilst it does feel a bit weird to completely alter two pairs of brand new trousers (I usually only over-dye worn out jeans), it’ll make a huge difference to my wardrobe.

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The wardrobe, which now looks like this! Well, almost like this. I did a bit of a swap, and all of Paul’s t-shirts are all now on plastic hangers, so I could put all of my clothes on wooden ones. I think they’re much nicer and Paul doesn’t care, so that worked out nicely!

The top rail is now organised by colour. Each pair of chinos is accompanied by its matching shirts and t-shirts on those multiple-hanger-thingybobs. They keep each group together and save so much space in the wardrobe, so that’s a win-win! The bottom rail has all of my “neutral” tops – black, white and grey shirts, t-shirts and all those H&M jumpers.

On the right, the top two cubbyholes are things I don’t wear for work. T-shirts with cartoons on them, and jumpers that are comfortable rather than smart. The cubbyhole with all the extra space in it is for yoga pants and leggings. That’s a section that needs adding to, I think.

And in the bottom square, jumpers that I can wear for work, including two chunky cardigans that I was going to unravel because they didn’t go with anything. (The green one, and the pink & orange.) I’m very glad I didn’t take them apart now! That section actually needs adding to as well. The sooner I can finish knitting my yellow cardigan the better – it turns out to go with almost all of the trousers, which is quite exciting as I would never have considered yellow to be a neutral colour before! I also have a bag full of grey wool, and some lovely Rowan Colourscape that should go with several pairs of trousers as well.

Of course, this is only half of my wardrobe… the non-work section’s going to be a different challenge, I think.

Oh, and I should also mention, the thing that got me started on all of this (aside of being incapable of making a decision at seven o’clock in the morning) was reading Coletterie’s Wardrobe Architect series. It’s a little more in depth than I needed, but it’s an interesting read, and should be a real help to anybody else who’s struggling with what to wear!

Wardrobe Analysis – Part One

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This frankly ridiculous pile of STUFF is the entire contents of my wardrobe.

(Well, except for the formal dresses for choir concerts. And the costumes. And the sports kit. And the pyjamas. And the band t-shirts that are too ancient to wear but must never be thrown away. Apart from that, it’s everything.)

I’ve been struggling with insomnia again, which means that today is one of those days where I can’t be trusted with a sewing machine, and I’m too frazzled to think about my Aromatherapy homework. So, given my recent smart-versus-casual crisis, I thought I’d take the opportunity to have a really in-depth look at all of my clothes and see what’s going on.

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Armed with a pen and paper, and then with Excel, I ended up with this inventory. (No, you’re not supposed to be able to read it. Yes, I do have seven pairs of bloomers. Shush.)

Everything with a white background is an item that I’ve made myself, or that my Mum has knitted for me. Everything in grey is something that came from a high street store, before I stopped buying my clothes that way. Everything in green is something that I bought from a store, but is either organic or ethically produced. The yellow items are second-hand. It surprised me that there were so few of those, as I used to buy a lot of things from charity shops!

To be honest, the proportion of things-made versus things-bought is actually better than I expected it to be. But, you can see that there are a few key areas where I need to make some quite drastic improvements. A few years ago a number of the jumpers that my Mum had knitted for me (way back in the 1990s!) sadly reached the end of their useful life. I still needed something to wear for work, and I know I’m a slow knitter, so I bought half a dozen “emergency” cotton jumpers from H&M.

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I know I bought them long before the appalling accident at the Bangladesh factory where all of these jumpers were probably made. But seeing these labels in my wardrobe, and knowing that my money went straight into the profits of a company who value their worldwide workers so little, makes me feel more than a little bit sick.

The worst of it is, I haven’t even stopped shopping there! I don’t buy things for myself any more, but their children’s clothes are so lovely, and so affordable, and they have such pretty little things for my niece… but I’m going to have to stop that. I’m not a very militant campaigner, but I do what I can with the little money I have, and I can definitely stop doing this.

There’s no point in sending these things straight down to the nearest charity shop though, even if I do feel bad every time I look at those labels. The jumpers in question are actually some of the most-worn items in my wardrobe, and I haven’t even started knitting a plain black jumper and cardigan to replace them. So they can stay for now, as a reminder that I can, and must, do better when I buy.

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These three pieces are waiting to be finished or altered before they can go into the wardrobe. The yellow blouse needs the hem and side slits finishing, and the buttons and buttonholes. The blue dress (covered in BEES!) needs the front placket sorting out, and the buttons and buttonholes. The broderie anglais dress came out looking too much like a nightie, so that’s awaiting the fate of being chopped in half and turned into a pretty layering tunic for the summer.

I was surprised there were so few unfinished pieces, to be honest, given how easily I get distracted. The blue dress has only been waiting for its buttons since, ooh, last May, or maybe June.

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Now my next problem (aside from how I’m going to get into bed tonight, if all my clothes are on the bedroom floor!) is how on earth to decide what I should keep, what I should take to a charity shop, and what gaps I need to fill in order to have Actual Outfits rather than just All The Clothes.

I’m going to start with all of my brightly-coloured trousers, I think. I do have organic cotton long-sleeved t-shirts to go with almost all of them now, although there are a couple of pairs I’m thinking about dyeing a different colour. Pale blue? Beige? They’re going to be ruined in three seconds flat! And my cream yoga pants are virtually unworn, for the same reason, so I might as well dye those too. If I can match them up with tops I have already, so much the better!

But hopefully, by the end of this process, I’ll have a much clearer idea of what I can wear on a daily basis, without looking into my over-stuffed wardrobe, having a great big panic, and pulling on the same old jeans and t-shirt because they don’t need thinking about.

(Although, having said all of this, the temptation to follow the example of Matilda Kahl and just buy multiples of the same outfit is currently extremely tempting!)

Back to the fabric stash

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So, I’ve been writing recently about mindful consumption and buying handmade shoes. A few years ago I wrote about Value versus Cost, and sneaked inside a post on vintage sewing patterns, I wrote a mini essay about ethically-produced jeans.

I’m trying very hard to be as responsible in my own shopping as I possibly can. My trousers are ethically produced. My yoga pants are organic cotton. My shoes are handmade. I try, as much as possible, not to support mass production in terms of clothing.

But, like everyone, sometimes I fail. I got very, very excited about these Yellow Submarine Vans, so I “treated myself” and bought them. (Ten months later, they’re sitting on my shoe rack having been worn only about half a dozen times because they don’t fit right and they’re not comfortable, so there’s a lesson for me!)

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Shortly after I’d bought them I got very excited about some almost-matching fabric, so I “treated myself” to that too. It’s cotton, but it’s not organic, and I had it sent over from America. I’m currently sewing it into a shirt that I can wear with the Vans. (Hopefully the shirt will actually fit, at least!)

I’m always a sucker for a novelty print, and in fact I’m currently waiting for the arrival of a parcel containing a shirt’s worth of this Lorax-print fabric. It’s coming all the way from America again, and at least it’s organic cotton this time. But while I was shopping I popped in a couple of other half-yards “for Milly”, and “to make the shipping costs worthwhile”.

That’s when I realised that I was basically making excuses to myself, to justify the purchase of cute things that I liked the look of, rather than thinking about what I actually needed, or how it was made.

Bishopston fabrics - straight out of the box

Given that I still have metres and metres of this lovely handwoven organic cotton sitting in my sewing room (bought all the way back in 2008, before Bishopston Trading closed down), I really have absolutely no excuse for buying any more fabric right now. Okay, so plain colours of cotton are not as fun and exciting as hilarious novelty prints. (And you know I do like a certain amount of my wardrobe to be hilarious!) But I can make up for that by printing simple designs myself… over-dyeing the fabrics… adding embroidery or lace… wearing lots of jewellery or knitted accessories… or just enjoying the nature of the hand-woven, hand-dyed material.

After that it’s time to go on a different kind of shopping spree I think – doing some research into what lovely new ethically-produced fabrics have become available since the last time I looked. Now that does sound exciting!

Feeling Pretty Nostalgic

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Image © Pretty Nostalgic

I’d already decided that my theme for this year was going to be “focus”. Last year it was all about “action!”, and although that went pretty well, it culminated in three major deadlines in a short space of time, a difficult recovery from that, and perhaps a certain amount of acting without really thinking first.

Lately I’d been looking at various magazines, thinking about the best place to take out a print advert for my hats. I can only afford one piece of advertising at the moment, so it’s very important that I get it right! The top contenders were Vintage Life and Rock & Roll Bride, until I suddenly remembered Pretty Nostalgic.

I thought I hadn’t seen a copy in the newsagent’s for a while, and it turns out that’s because the magazine is now a subscription-only Compendium, with very varied articles and no advertising. However, they do have a Business Directory which is also based on an annual subscription. This gives you an entry in the Directory (in print and online), several copies of the printed Compendium to sell or give away, and the opportunity to get involved by writing feature articles or otherwise contributing to the magazine itself.

I think what really struck me was this:

“Pretty Nostalgic is about hands-on living, heartfelt giving and mindful consumption.

We are committed to supporting independent British makers, small independent shops and businesses and those who supply handmade, vintage, antique or upcycled goods and services. We want to put our hard-earned cash into the hands of those who deserve it!”

That definitely sounds like something I’d really enjoy being part of! I’m trying very hard to move away from mass production, as both a producer and a consumer, and this seems like a good step in the right direction.

The best thing about Pretty Nostalgic’s approach is that it really is a community. More than just placing an advert in a magazine and walking away with your fingers crossed, it’s an opportunity to interact with folks who have similar values. I have to confess that it’s not a community I’m actually part of yet. (And Pretty Nostalgic are in no way involved in this post, I’m just really excited about their manifesto!)

Reading the Compendium, and thinking about how I want to advertise Eternal Magpie has caused me to take a few steps back to have a good old think about what I really want to do, and what I want my business to represent. As a result I actually won’t be signing myself up for a business membership quite yet, but I have just subscribed to the Compendium as a personal member, so I look forward to reading the latest issue!

The Captain Samuel Vimes ‘Boots’ theory of socioeconomic unfairness

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Image © Fairysteps

“The reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money.

Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in Ankh-Morpork on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles.

But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that’d still be keeping his feet dry in ten years’ time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet.

This was the Captain Samuel Vimes ‘Boots’ theory of socioeconomic unfairness.”

Terry Pratchett, Men At Arms

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Image © Conker Shoes

I used to be something of a shoe addict. As a child I had to wear Very Sensible shoes, but the moment I was freed from this tyranny I got myself a job in a shoe shop, and spent all my hard-earned cash (did I tell you about the time a toddler kicked me in the eye?) on buying ALL THE SHOES. This continued into my twenties, when I eventually stopped working in a shoe shop (and being kicked by toddlers, mostly), but carried on buying ALL THE SHOES. By the time I was in my thirties, I lived in a house with a dedicated Shoe Cupboard. I don’t think I ever counted them, but at the height of my shoe obsession I probably had something in the region of fifty pairs. A couple of them were very expensive. Most of them were very cheap, badly made, bought in sales, didn’t really fit properly, and certainly weren’t comfortable. Comfortable shoes were for losers! It was all about having the perfect pair to go with the perfect outfit.

After my first hip operation, I bought a pair of hiking trainers, and a pair of orthotics to go inside them. They were a revelation. I could walk! My back didn’t hurt! But wow, they were ugly. I did get rid of the majority of my ridiculously high-heeled shoes, but all I did was replace one addiction with another. I took to buying second-hand Dr Martens on Ebay, thinking that at least they were flat, and (mostly) comfortable. Soon I had a pair to match every outfit! And then the hip surgery came around again, on the other leg. My physiotherapist told me that Dr Martens, even with orthotics inside them, were the worst possible shoes I could wear. (But surely they were originally designed to be orthopaedic? What the heck?!) They were too stiff, offered insufficient support, and he convinced me to sell the lot. Heartbreaking.

Fairysteps Queenie

Since then, having reached the conclusions that 1) I really like being able to walk, and 2) I don’t really fancy having any more hip surgery until they eventually have to be replaced, I made the decision to buy Only Sensible Shoes. An initial online search turned up mostly horrible ugly orthopaedic-looking things, which was a bit depressing. Thankfully I eventually stumbled upon the wonders that are Fairysteps and Conker Shoes!

Conker Boots

I now have a grand total of fifteen pairs of shoes. A small collection for me, but by my husband’s standards, this is triple the number of shoes a person needs. (He has two pairs of army boots, two pairs of Converse, and a pair of casual Merrells that he never wears.) I’ve been gradually building up my collection until I have enough shoes and boots that will work with with most of my clothes, and the only gap remaining is a pair of summer sandals. I’m saving up, and I’m going to buy a gold and silver pair from Conker, if the weather’s ever warm again.

Once my collection’s complete, I effectively won’t need to buy shoes! Ever again!

Actually, I try not to think about that too much, because it makes me shiver a little bit. But the whole point of Conkers is that they can be completely re-soled once they wear out, and then they’ll be lovely and fresh and new again. They can also fix mistakes! My black and silver brogues were my first pair, and I ordered them one width fitting too tight, and with soles that I don’t find especially comfortable. But, when the time comes to have them repaired, I can have the uppers stretched, and the soles replaced with ones I like – without having to buy a whole new pair of shoes!

Fairysteps Moonshine
(Yes, I wear these to work. People take the mickey every damn time, but I wear them anyway.)

I’m not sure what to do about re-soling the Fairysteps collection – I don’t have a Proper Cobbler in my town any more, and I’m not completely convinced I can trust them to any old glue-a-rubber-heel-on shoe repairer on the high street. That’s a bridge I’m going to need to cross fairly soon, as the ones I wear most often are starting to get a little bit slippery as the treads wear away.

Anyway. What was I waffling on about?

Oh yes, I know.

At the end of the day, all of these shoes are really rather expensive.

Like Captain Vimes, I can’t afford them. The boots at the top were bought for me as a joint Christmas gift by my husband, parents and sister, and I chipped in a bit towards them too. But, I think they’re worth the money.

Each pair of these shoes and boots was made individually, by hand, by a single person. (Or a small team, in Conker’s case.) No factory, no thousands of identical pairs being pumped out only to end up in landfill when fashions change, so the impact on the planet in terms of both production and waste is much, much lower. And because they can be repaired, only the worn-out sole needs to be disposed of rather than the entire shoe, meaning less waste again.

The black & silver brogues were a colour combination that I chose, and Conker put together for me. I have a pair of Fairysteps boots that are turquoise with little brown birds on them, which are absolutely unique. Conker don’t make their derby boots with a brogue toecap – but when I emailed to ask them whether it was possible, they said yes. They also read my blog, spotted that my black & silver shoes were too tight, and recommended a wider fit when I bought the boots – a year later. How’s that for customer service?!

So yes, it can be very hard to reconcile spending a lot of money on a pair of shoes. Especially when you don’t have a great deal of money to spend in the first place. (Which, as someone who works part time, I definitely don’t!) But when you look at how long these boots are going to last, the kind of customer service that comes with them, and the greatly reduced impact on the planet thanks to opting out of mass production, the decision (to me, at least) seems a great deal easier.

New Old Knitting

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I was absolutely convinced I’d blogged about this last summer, but apparently not! Anyway, way back in July or August, my friend Chris sent me a parcel full of knitting patterns. Some I kept, some I passed on to my Mum, but the one that really stood out to me was this one. A probably-1960s raglan cardigan, with a smart cable detail, that should fit over the top of the 1950s dresses I’d been making at the time. One of the problems with new knitting patterns, even vintage-style ones, is that they tend to be very fitted. When you’ve got a dress or a blouse with quite wide sleeves, you need a roomier cardigan to go over the top!

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Image © Victoria & Albert Museum

The pattern calls for 18 ounces of double knitting yarn, in my size. That translates to roughly 525 grams, which seemed a little on the light side. I wanted to check on the yardage in those 18 ounces, as it varies from yarn to yarn, and I wanted to make sure I’d have enough. The yardage wasn’t stated in the pattern, so I went online to have a look. I didn’t find much in the way of helpful information, as it turned out – although the V&A do have this lovely shade chart. Remember those? I used to love choosing wool with my Mum, from the little tufty shade charts that she used to keep in the sideboard. Wouldn’t it be nice to have those again now, so that we could see what we were getting before we ordered online?

Anyway, I digress.

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What I did find, eventually, was this. The exact wool called for in the pattern, a grand total of 18 ounces, all in the same dye lot, and in absolutely perfect condition! And to top it off, a rummage in the button stash turned up the perfect set. I still can’t believe the serendipity of it!

The thing I still don’t know, sadly, is the yardage of each of those tiny one ounce balls of wool. It’s not stated on the label, so the only thing I can do now is unravel one, and measure it. I might also, for the first time in my knitting life, actually make a gauge swatch and measure that too. Given that I have precisely the amount of yarn called for, I can’t even entertain the possibility of running out. After all, it’s not as though I can pop down to the shops and buy some more!

Making Changes

Right! Here we go. All of my sadly neglected Etsy listings have all now been moved into the Eternal Magpie Etsy Shop. It’s rather flooded with felt flower brooches and hair clips as the moment, which is emphasising the fact that I really need to take some new photos of those “in action”, so that people can get a better idea of what they’ll look like being worn.

I have some new hats drying on the blocks at the moment, so while I’m waiting for them to be ready I can have a good think about what kinds of trimmings I want to add to them. After several months off, it’ll be nice to have some new hats to work on!

I’ll also be getting rid of the sewing patterns and haberdashery altogether. Once their listings expire, that’s it, I’ll be taking them down to my local charity shop. They’re taking up space, they’re making the shop look untidy, and I’d rather they just went to a good home.

The Inexplicable Emporium on Etsy is now almost empty. I’m allowing the remaining listings to expire, and keeping up one post which explains where all the hats have gone! The reason for emptying this particular Etsy store is that I’ve started the process of moving it to its own domain. As a result, Mr & Mrs Magpie’s Inexplicable Emporium will have its own website, with a blog and a store, although it’s very much a work in progress at the moment. The purpose of moving this one away from Etsy was to allow us to have greater scope in the products that we’re able to offer. The ceramic oil burner, for example, goes perfectly with the soy wax tarts that I’m going to make. But because the burner isn’t hand made, I didn’t feel comfortable selling it on Etsy. (I know that I could probably have “got away with it”, under their new rules allowing third-party manufacture, but frankly I don’t think that’s what Etsy should be about. So there you go.)  There’s a lot of fiddling still to do (and a lot of blog posts and an entire back-story to write), but I will do a proper announcement when it’s all “officially” up and running.

It’s all slow progress, I know. But I am starting to feel as though it’s actual progress now, rather than just faffing about, so that must be good!