Thinking about hats

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One of the things I’ve been thinking about recently is my hats, and where they’re going.

Before Christmas, they were really well-received at a local craft fair. Even the feedback from people who made sure to tell us that they were definitely not going to buy a hat was overwhelmingly positive! Buoyed by this result, after Christmas I signed myself up to go to a wedding fair, and made some more “weddingy” hats to display.

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I was really pleased with the designs I’d come up with, but it quickly transpired that they weren’t going to be anywhere near as well received as the cloches. Time to think again.

I think what I’d overlooked, in the mad rush to make plenty of stock for Christmas and the wedding fair, was that these hats were always supposed to be a means to an end – a stepping stone to learn the skills, so I could then move on to a different kind of hat. I became so bogged down in what I thought I could sell, that I forgot all about what I had originally been trying to create.

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I’ve learnt a lot from the hats I’ve made so far, and I’ve really enjoyed working with organic cotton lace and beautiful wool felt. These headbands, for example, will definitely be staying around. I’ve also realised that the reason I’ve been so quiet on the blog for so long is that I simply don’t feel comfortable writing a post whose sole purpose is to try and sell you something. Which, to be honest, is all I’ve been trying to do for the past year. I mean, yes, of course I need to sell the hats once I’ve made them, otherwise I’m just filling my work room with stuff! But I’d much rather share a thought or explain a process than just try to sell a hat.

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What I’d originally intended to make was a series of freeform hats like this, from handmade felt. I also wanted to use handmade felt to make traditionally-formed hats, such as my favourite cloche shape shown above. Unfortunately, the fibromyalgia’s been so bad this year that I haven’t had the strength required to make the quality and thickness of felt necessary for this type of hat.  However, at the Christmas craft fair I did have quite a long chat with a local felting expert who was quite critical of my pieces (at my request), and gave me quite a few tips for techniques and tools that I might find helpful.

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I have to admit that I have absolutely loved almost every single hat that I’ve made so far. The learning curve has been an enjoyable one, and the materials are extremely satisfying to work with. Just for now though, it’s time to take a little break, have a little think, and work out what to do next.

Feeling Pretty Nostalgic

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Image © Pretty Nostalgic

I’d already decided that my theme for this year was going to be “focus”. Last year it was all about “action!”, and although that went pretty well, it culminated in three major deadlines in a short space of time, a difficult recovery from that, and perhaps a certain amount of acting without really thinking first.

Lately I’d been looking at various magazines, thinking about the best place to take out a print advert for my hats. I can only afford one piece of advertising at the moment, so it’s very important that I get it right! The top contenders were Vintage Life and Rock & Roll Bride, until I suddenly remembered Pretty Nostalgic.

I thought I hadn’t seen a copy in the newsagent’s for a while, and it turns out that’s because the magazine is now a subscription-only Compendium, with very varied articles and no advertising. However, they do have a Business Directory which is also based on an annual subscription. This gives you an entry in the Directory (in print and online), several copies of the printed Compendium to sell or give away, and the opportunity to get involved by writing feature articles or otherwise contributing to the magazine itself.

I think what really struck me was this:

“Pretty Nostalgic is about hands-on living, heartfelt giving and mindful consumption.

We are committed to supporting independent British makers, small independent shops and businesses and those who supply handmade, vintage, antique or upcycled goods and services. We want to put our hard-earned cash into the hands of those who deserve it!”

That definitely sounds like something I’d really enjoy being part of! I’m trying very hard to move away from mass production, as both a producer and a consumer, and this seems like a good step in the right direction.

The best thing about Pretty Nostalgic’s approach is that it really is a community. More than just placing an advert in a magazine and walking away with your fingers crossed, it’s an opportunity to interact with folks who have similar values. I have to confess that it’s not a community I’m actually part of yet. (And Pretty Nostalgic are in no way involved in this post, I’m just really excited about their manifesto!)

Reading the Compendium, and thinking about how I want to advertise Eternal Magpie has caused me to take a few steps back to have a good old think about what I really want to do, and what I want my business to represent. As a result I actually won’t be signing myself up for a business membership quite yet, but I have just subscribed to the Compendium as a personal member, so I look forward to reading the latest issue!

The Captain Samuel Vimes ‘Boots’ theory of socioeconomic unfairness

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Image © Fairysteps

“The reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money.

Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in Ankh-Morpork on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles.

But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that’d still be keeping his feet dry in ten years’ time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet.

This was the Captain Samuel Vimes ‘Boots’ theory of socioeconomic unfairness.”

Terry Pratchett, Men At Arms

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Image © Conker Shoes

I used to be something of a shoe addict. As a child I had to wear Very Sensible shoes, but the moment I was freed from this tyranny I got myself a job in a shoe shop, and spent all my hard-earned cash (did I tell you about the time a toddler kicked me in the eye?) on buying ALL THE SHOES. This continued into my twenties, when I eventually stopped working in a shoe shop (and being kicked by toddlers, mostly), but carried on buying ALL THE SHOES. By the time I was in my thirties, I lived in a house with a dedicated Shoe Cupboard. I don’t think I ever counted them, but at the height of my shoe obsession I probably had something in the region of fifty pairs. A couple of them were very expensive. Most of them were very cheap, badly made, bought in sales, didn’t really fit properly, and certainly weren’t comfortable. Comfortable shoes were for losers! It was all about having the perfect pair to go with the perfect outfit.

After my first hip operation, I bought a pair of hiking trainers, and a pair of orthotics to go inside them. They were a revelation. I could walk! My back didn’t hurt! But wow, they were ugly. I did get rid of the majority of my ridiculously high-heeled shoes, but all I did was replace one addiction with another. I took to buying second-hand Dr Martens on Ebay, thinking that at least they were flat, and (mostly) comfortable. Soon I had a pair to match every outfit! And then the hip surgery came around again, on the other leg. My physiotherapist told me that Dr Martens, even with orthotics inside them, were the worst possible shoes I could wear. (But surely they were originally designed to be orthopaedic? What the heck?!) They were too stiff, offered insufficient support, and he convinced me to sell the lot. Heartbreaking.

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Since then, having reached the conclusions that 1) I really like being able to walk, and 2) I don’t really fancy having any more hip surgery until they eventually have to be replaced, I made the decision to buy Only Sensible Shoes. An initial online search turned up mostly horrible ugly orthopaedic-looking things, which was a bit depressing. Thankfully I eventually stumbled upon the wonders that are Fairysteps and Conker Shoes!

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I now have a grand total of fifteen pairs of shoes. A small collection for me, but by my husband’s standards, this is triple the number of shoes a person needs. (He has two pairs of army boots, two pairs of Converse, and a pair of casual Merrells that he never wears.) I’ve been gradually building up my collection until I have enough shoes and boots that will work with with most of my clothes, and the only gap remaining is a pair of summer sandals. I’m saving up, and I’m going to buy a gold and silver pair from Conker, if the weather’s ever warm again.

Once my collection’s complete, I effectively won’t need to buy shoes! Ever again!

Actually, I try not to think about that too much, because it makes me shiver a little bit. But the whole point of Conkers is that they can be completely re-soled once they wear out, and then they’ll be lovely and fresh and new again. They can also fix mistakes! My black and silver brogues were my first pair, and I ordered them one width fitting too tight, and with soles that I don’t find especially comfortable. But, when the time comes to have them repaired, I can have the uppers stretched, and the soles replaced with ones I like – without having to buy a whole new pair of shoes!

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(Yes, I wear these to work. People take the mickey every damn time, but I wear them anyway.)

I’m not sure what to do about re-soling the Fairysteps collection – I don’t have a Proper Cobbler in my town any more, and I’m not completely convinced I can trust them to any old glue-a-rubber-heel-on shoe repairer on the high street. That’s a bridge I’m going to need to cross fairly soon, as the ones I wear most often are starting to get a little bit slippery as the treads wear away.

Anyway. What was I waffling on about?

Oh yes, I know.

At the end of the day, all of these shoes are really rather expensive.

Like Captain Vimes, I can’t afford them. The boots at the top were bought for me as a joint Christmas gift by my husband, parents and sister, and I chipped in a bit towards them too. But, I think they’re worth the money.

Each pair of these shoes and boots was made individually, by hand, by a single person. (Or a small team, in Conker’s case.) No factory, no thousands of identical pairs being pumped out only to end up in landfill when fashions change, so the impact on the planet in terms of both production and waste is much, much lower. And because they can be repaired, only the worn-out sole needs to be disposed of rather than the entire shoe, meaning less waste again.

The black & silver brogues were a colour combination that I chose, and Conker put together for me. I have a pair of Fairysteps boots that are turquoise with little brown birds on them, which are absolutely unique. Conker don’t make their derby boots with a brogue toecap – but when I emailed to ask them whether it was possible, they said yes. They also read my blog, spotted that my black & silver shoes were too tight, and recommended a wider fit when I bought the boots – a year later. How’s that for customer service?!

So yes, it can be very hard to reconcile spending a lot of money on a pair of shoes. Especially when you don’t have a great deal of money to spend in the first place. (Which, as someone who works part time, I definitely don’t!) But when you look at how long these boots are going to last, the kind of customer service that comes with them, and the greatly reduced impact on the planet thanks to opting out of mass production, the decision (to me, at least) seems a great deal easier.

Do you wanna build a snowman…?

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As someone with an almost-four year old niece, it was inevitable that Aunty Claire was going to get the call at some point. I was half-expecting a request for a Princess Elsa dress for her birthday, but it turned out to be a slightly last-minute Anna cloak to wear to a Frozen-themed party. So, I leapt into action, dashed down to the fabric shop, managed to grab the very last of the purple pom-pom trim, and set to work!

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The finished cloak was a bit on the big side, but thankfully very well received, despite not being quite as screen-accurate as I normally like my costumes to be! The silver clasp at the neck worried me a little bit – I was concerned that Milly wouldn’t be able to fasten it easily, or might be hurt if another child pulled on the cloak or stepped on it. So Paul cut off the hook and loop, filed them down smooth, and I sewed on the two pieces as decoration only. The cloak fastens with a piece of velcro, so it will come apart quickly if necessary, and Milly can easily dress herself.

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This one is Milly’s somewhat delayed Christmas Dress. She’d finally grown out of the pattern I’d been using since her first birthday, so this is a new one – Butterick 5876. I have to say that I don’t really recommend the pattern. It does make a lovely dress, but the finishing techniques, for a garment that’s going to be outgrown in a matter of minutes, were frankly bonkers. Lots of mucking about with facings and hand stitching around the arms, that could have been accomplished so much more quickly and easily with a bit of bias binding! Next time…

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The only alteration I made to the pattern on this occasion was to significantly enlarge the pocket. Honestly, what’s the point of a silly little pocket that even a three year old can’t get her hand into? As you can see from this picture, the pocket was full of jelly beans. And Milly had her face painted like a cat, to match the dress – how cute is that?!

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And here is a tiny piece of evidence that my niece is very much a child after my own heart. Fancy dress costume, pretty party dress, giant stompy boots underneath. Excellent!

Not quite a pillowcase top

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Still feeling inspired by the Great British Sewing Bee, this time the alteration challenge to create something from a pair of curtains. I’ve done a fair amount of fabric recycling in the past, from curtains, duvet covers, and end-of-roll fabrics. The tunic dress above was made from a gorgeous brand new vintage bed sheet, and I was able to use the border print along the hem.

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I was suddenly inspired to make a little cropped layering top, that I could fit onto just a pillowcase-sized piece of fabric, so I opened up my pattern drafting software and came up with this. Sadly it doesn’t fit onto a pillowcase, because I hadn’t taken into account the actual size of a pillowcase when I was working on the design. Oops. It does however fit onto a single metre of fabric, so it’s a very economical little top.

This prototype version is cut on the bias and has a seam down the centre front and back. The only reason for that is because the pieces were cut from the skirt of a dress that I made years ago, and never wore, so it’s still fabric recycling in that sense. It would definitely look better without the seam, and in this type of fabric I don’t think having it on the bias really makes all that much difference.

IMG_4931I’d originally envisaged wearing this with trousers and a long-sleeved t-shirt, or maybe over a camisole top in the summer. When I had a rummage in my wardrobe though, I spotted this empire-line dress and thought they’d go really well together!

The top is designed to be reversible, with the v-neck at the front if you have a pretty necklace to show off, or at the back if you have, say, a lovely tattoo, or perhaps you just prefer the higher neckline. This one is finished with some vintage nylon lingerie trim, but I can also imagine it with very fine organic cotton lace. In fact it would look lovely with some deeper lace around the hem as well.

10406953_10152469716633829_8661130960669008137_nIn fact, way back in May, I bought a little pile of organic cotton fabrics, most of which are about a metre in size. The bicycle print and the matching spots have been turned into a tunic for a friend, but all the others are still sitting in my stash. I think I might have just discovered what to do with them!

 

 

 

Sewing Bee Show-Off

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Hands up, who watched last night’s Great British Sewing Bee? I must confess to getting a bit over-excited when they announced that the challenge was going to be the Walk-away dress! The idea was that the dress was so simple to make that you could, as the ad above says, “cut it out at 9 o’clock… wear it out at noon!”

The illustrations also show the use of a binding foot to make all that trimming easier. We may think of all these gadgets as new and modern, but they’re really not. The machines may have only been able to do one straight stitch, but the amount of extra presser feet that came with them was phenomenal. Bias binding, lace insertion, quilting, ruffles… all sorts of things!

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I thought it was ridiculously popular when the pattern was re-issued a few years ago (seriously, the dratted thing was everywhere), but during the 1950s according to Butterick, “Sales of the pattern were so great, that at one point manufacturing of all other patterns ceased, and only the ‘walk-away’ dress was produced until all back-orders for this dress could be filled.”

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I’ve certainly made my fair share of these dresses, although I don’t think I ever followed the pattern exactly, and I certainly never made one in only three hours! The Hallowe’en version, above, tied with ribbons at the front because my weight used to fluctuate a lot, so I knew buttons would be no good. This skull print one had a deep lace trim around the bottom of the circle skirt, which I was really pleased with. I seem to remember that I also added a layer of net inside the skirt, to give it a bit of extra body.

Nicola's Katie Jump Rope walk-away dress

This one’s in a lovely Denyse Schmidt quilting cotton, with the binding continued all the way around the hem, and three gorgeous little flower buttons…

Nicola's Buddha's Cloud walk-away dress

…and this one has a contrast front section in a plain cotton. One thing it is important to note if you’re making this dress from a printed fabric, is that you need to choose a design that’s non-directional. If your print only works one way up, it will turn out to be upside down at some point on a circular skirt! Thankfully nobody was caught out by that on last night’s sewing bee, but it’s something I had to learn the hard way…

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And of course, I’ve saved my favourite version for last – my “camouflaged elephants” dress. You can see that I’ve modified the neckline to make it lower (boat necks really don’t suit my narrow shoulders), and I’ve also shortened the bodice. Unfortunately I eventually had to resign myself to the fact that no matter how many alterations I made, this dress simply didn’t suit me, and was a nuisance to wear as a result. If it doesn’t fit very tightly around the waist, the heavy circle skirt pulls the much lighter inner layer up and back, and it’s really annoying to keep fiddling with it all day!

For me, this was a lesson in being seduced by the popular pattern of the day, regardless of whether it actually suits your body type or will be comfortable to wear. Turns out this is a lesson I’m going to keep having to learn, as I just can’t resist a lovely pattern. Or a novelty print… I really want to make another dress with those elephants now!

New Old Knitting

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I was absolutely convinced I’d blogged about this last summer, but apparently not! Anyway, way back in July or August, my friend Chris sent me a parcel full of knitting patterns. Some I kept, some I passed on to my Mum, but the one that really stood out to me was this one. A probably-1960s raglan cardigan, with a smart cable detail, that should fit over the top of the 1950s dresses I’d been making at the time. One of the problems with new knitting patterns, even vintage-style ones, is that they tend to be very fitted. When you’ve got a dress or a blouse with quite wide sleeves, you need a roomier cardigan to go over the top!

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Image © Victoria & Albert Museum

The pattern calls for 18 ounces of double knitting yarn, in my size. That translates to roughly 525 grams, which seemed a little on the light side. I wanted to check on the yardage in those 18 ounces, as it varies from yarn to yarn, and I wanted to make sure I’d have enough. The yardage wasn’t stated in the pattern, so I went online to have a look. I didn’t find much in the way of helpful information, as it turned out – although the V&A do have this lovely shade chart. Remember those? I used to love choosing wool with my Mum, from the little tufty shade charts that she used to keep in the sideboard. Wouldn’t it be nice to have those again now, so that we could see what we were getting before we ordered online?

Anyway, I digress.

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What I did find, eventually, was this. The exact wool called for in the pattern, a grand total of 18 ounces, all in the same dye lot, and in absolutely perfect condition! And to top it off, a rummage in the button stash turned up the perfect set. I still can’t believe the serendipity of it!

The thing I still don’t know, sadly, is the yardage of each of those tiny one ounce balls of wool. It’s not stated on the label, so the only thing I can do now is unravel one, and measure it. I might also, for the first time in my knitting life, actually make a gauge swatch and measure that too. Given that I have precisely the amount of yarn called for, I can’t even entertain the possibility of running out. After all, it’s not as though I can pop down to the shops and buy some more!

Hello, goodbye

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I’m hoping that a few people will have followed me over to this new blog location… hello to those of you who’ve joined me!

I feel as though the sentence above should have an extra comma in it: art, books, chocolate and young men. Either way, the sentiment stands. I have a young man (my husband will be 37 tomorrow, to my 41), and goodness knows I get through a lot of chocolate, but my life has been sadly lacking in art, books, and indeed art books, lately.

Things have been very quiet around here, mainly because I haven’t been doing very much apart from going to work, coming home, trying not to be ill, and making hats. The trying not to be ill part isn’t going very well at the moment, so I need to make a few changes to try and improve matters.

I had already planned to take a sabbatical from the hats during February, to sit back for a while and have a bit of a think about the direction I want to follow with them. It turns out I’m going to need a bit more time than that, so the hats are going on the back burner for a couple of months. My boss at work was good enough to suggest I took some annual leave at short notice, so I’ve spent a few days curled up on the sofa, reading and trying to relax. I have a couple more days before I go back, which are reserved for celebrating Paul’s birthday, and trying not to be ill. Hopefully they’ll also include plenty of books and chocolate.

Once I’m back at work, my remaining free time is going to be selfishly spent for a while. Sewing for myself, knitting for myself, picking up my long-abandoned Aromatherapy course, and probably delving back into some art books as well. I’m not sure at the moment how long it’ll take me to get back to the hats, but I do intend to blog about what I’m doing in the meantime. (She says, having posted barely anything for months.)

Anyway, here’s a big thank you to those of you who’ve chosen to stick around – hopefully the rest and relaxation will perk me up a bit soon.