Prototype Hats

I’m still working on various different styles of sewn hats, as well as the blocked felt ones. This is a prototype stretch turban, which I’m really rather pleased with! It’s inspired by 1940s styles, and I don’t think it makes me look too much as though I should be wearing a housecoat and have hair curlers poking out from underneath…

Mind you, even if it does, I don’t much care, because it’s just so comfortable. The band can be pulled right down over your ears, which means it’ll be really cosy on windy days, but it’s light enough to wear in this in-between weather when it’s still not too cold. It’s also soft enough that it scrunches down to nothing, so if the sun does decide to come out you can just take it off and stick in in a pocket. Perfect!

This is prototype number two, in stretch velvet. Not as comfortable as the first one, because the fabric’s quite a bit thicker. You can’t see from these photos, but there are pleats all down the back of the hat to gather it into place. I need to undo them and replace them with something a bit less bumpy, as this one’s not quite as comfortable as the jersey version. But hey – that’s what prototypes are for – to work out exactly this kind of thing, and make any modifications that might turn out to be necessary.

Once I’ve got these little niggles worked out, I’ll be popping some photos in the Etsy shop and taking orders for these. I expect I’ll be making a couple more to keep, too.

This somewhat different style is my prototype Draped Turban, from a set of original 1920s instructions by Ruth Wyeth Spears.

I’m not convinced it looks quite like the picture, are you?!

I found the instructions on Pinterest, courtesy of The Midvale Cottage Post blog, which I am now eagerly following. (Vintage sewing patterns and instructions? Yes please!) I cut all the pieces out as specified, without really thinking too much about the measurements. When I came to sew the side band to the crown, I discovered that the circumference of an 8″ diameter circle isn’t anywhere near 29″, so I’m not entirely certain why I was advised to cut the pieces so big. The other problem was that it simply isn’t possible to pop down to a department store and buy a handy buckram crown, so I needed to make an inner foundation for the hat. I did this with six segments made from heavy interfacing, and then again with lining. I made them a little smaller than the outer hat, because the instructions say to “distribute fullness” at the bottom.

Unfortunately my own maths had apparently also gone a little bit awry, because the dratted thing now has a circumference of only 21-and-a-bit inches, which means it’s much too small. It wouldn’t even fit on my polystyrene head without the wig, and I managed to gouge a chunk out of her ear as I was trying to force the issue. (Sorry, polystyrene lady!) I also think the inner foundation isn’t quite tall enough. It’s supposed to be a floppy hat, but there seems to be a lot more fabric to play with than the picture might suggest.

So, it’s back to the drawing board with this one, I think. Which is a shame, because I would wear the heck out of this hat… if I could get it on my head!